If you're like many people with their own car, you no doubt like to personalize certain aspects of it's interior or exterior from time to time. From after-market alloy wheels to designer seat covers, personalization is something that most car owners do at some point to stamp their personality on their car and make it their own.
One of the most popular ways to tailor your cars specification to your driving and personal style is to add or customize the in-car audio system. Whether it is a new car or one bought second hand, many people make the decision to personalize the audio components in their car to reflect their personal tastes and enhance the quality of the music experience where possible. From simply adding a CD player to completely upgrading the sound system to a DVD audio visual entertainment package, there are a variety of options for most tastes and budgets.
Whilst there are numerous retail stores both on and off line that sell vast ranges of car audio equipment, to get the best value for your money, you may want to consider purchasing wholesale car audio equipment. Many people may believe that buying car audio products wholesale requires buying in quantity, but this is not always true. Through car audio wholesale companies you are able to purchase different car audio components to allow your car audio system perform at its maximum potential.
Unless you have purchased defective parts or just simply ordered the wrong parts for your audio system model, you shouldn't have any problems. To prevent this, ensure you have the precise specifications of your existing audio system together with exact details of any add-on components you wish to fit. Following this one very simple step will ensure that you receive the components that are right and compatible for your car audio system first time.
When looking to purchase car audio equipment from wholesale suppliers, a few things you may want to check on is the warranties or guarantees that are available as well as the exchange policy. This information can save you wasted time and money if you purchase defective parts or ones that are not compatible with your car or model of audio system.
Once you have received your car audio components all you need to do is have them installed correctly into your audio system. If you have the technical expertise to fit audio components you will save money and be sure of a good job but, first ensure that you are not invalidating any warranties by customizing the system yourself. Some manufacturers require that systems are fitted professionally to maintain the standard warranties. So to get the maximum potential from your customized system it is essential that they are installed correctly.
After the components are installed check out the performance of your newly personalized audio system, if results are satisfactory, you can add the car audio wholesale dealer to your list of reliable car audio dealers for any future improvements you might make.
Sunday, January 31, 2010
Tips For Picking The Right Golf Cart Batteries
The batteries for your golf cart are something you should consider carefully – remember that you will want your golf cart to last for the duration of the course, which could be quite a long walk. You do not want the batteries to run out before you have finished 18 holes, so you must make the choice carefully. The batteries for your golf cart are essentially the juice that keeps it moving, just like fuel for a car, and it is an important purchase if you want to enjoy your game.
What You Should Know About Batteries.
First of all you should know that the golf cart batteries are going to lose their charge quite easily even if they are just sitting in the golf cart in the off season. Because of this, you have to be sure that you are keeping your golf cart batteries charged up, even if that means coming in every few weeks to charge the batteries as they sit in your golf cart. This is important because the golf cart batteries will actually lose their ability to charge fully if you don’t charge them often. You have to charge them even when you aren’t using the golf cart.
Another important thing to remember is that it is important to keep your golf cart batteries clean. Under prolonged use, dirt and debris can quickly build up and damage the golf cart. Cleaning the batteries frequently will make sure that you can keep wear and tear down to a minimum level.
When you are buying golf cart batteries you need to pay close attention to the brand. There are simply some brands that are better than others, so you have to be sure that you have researched the different brands and that you know what is best for the place in which you live. There are some brands that are better for cold temperatures, and some brands that work well in extreme heat. You have to be sure that you are buying golf cart batteries that work well with the environment, because your golf cart is going to be used outside all of the time.
When you buy your golf cart batteries, make sure that they come with a warranty, so that you can be confident it will be replaced if it fails sooner than could be reasonably expected. Golf cart batteries are expensive, and the assurance of a warranty will give you peace of mind that you are getting a good, quality product for your money.
What You Should Know About Batteries.
First of all you should know that the golf cart batteries are going to lose their charge quite easily even if they are just sitting in the golf cart in the off season. Because of this, you have to be sure that you are keeping your golf cart batteries charged up, even if that means coming in every few weeks to charge the batteries as they sit in your golf cart. This is important because the golf cart batteries will actually lose their ability to charge fully if you don’t charge them often. You have to charge them even when you aren’t using the golf cart.
Another important thing to remember is that it is important to keep your golf cart batteries clean. Under prolonged use, dirt and debris can quickly build up and damage the golf cart. Cleaning the batteries frequently will make sure that you can keep wear and tear down to a minimum level.
When you are buying golf cart batteries you need to pay close attention to the brand. There are simply some brands that are better than others, so you have to be sure that you have researched the different brands and that you know what is best for the place in which you live. There are some brands that are better for cold temperatures, and some brands that work well in extreme heat. You have to be sure that you are buying golf cart batteries that work well with the environment, because your golf cart is going to be used outside all of the time.
When you buy your golf cart batteries, make sure that they come with a warranty, so that you can be confident it will be replaced if it fails sooner than could be reasonably expected. Golf cart batteries are expensive, and the assurance of a warranty will give you peace of mind that you are getting a good, quality product for your money.
Tips For Your Successful Car Purchase
If you finally decided to get rid of your old and ugly car, don't jump into a car buying without calculating.
It's o.k. that you already know what you want. The latest Ferrari model, of course. The red one you saw at http://thecarofyourfantasies.com. But maybe you should reconsider it. By the way, did you know that red cars and sports type cars are stopped more often?
Purchasing a new car is a complicated financial operation and a highlight of your life. Take it seriously.
First, have a look at your family budget. Sit down and check all your household expenses, as well as cash on hand and your take-home pay and determine what you can reasonably afford to pay for a new car. According to the experts you shouldn't spend on your car more than 20 percent of your monthly income.
Afterwards check your credit. Start this process months before you plan to purchase, if possible, because if you have incorrect or outdated information that's lowering your score - and therefore raising the interest rate you'll have to pay - it can removed, but it takes at least 60 to 90 days.
To calculate monthly payments, you should factor in proposed purchase price, the down payment, interest rate and term of your loan. All will affect how much you can afford to spend on your car.
Don't worry if you can't get a standard loan, there are alternatives. If the banks, building societies and credit unions won't lend to you because you're self employed, newly arrived in the country or have a poor credit history, consider the booming non-conforming and "low doc" loan market.
A number of non-bank lenders offer loans which especially cater for this type of borrower. The interest rates on non-conforming loans are generally higher but come down after a few years of on-time repayments.
Think about all the expenses of a car: Insurance rates, fuel costs, maintenance, repair and not only the purchase price. Some luxury cars and not American-made cars cost more to repair.
Decide if you want to buy a new car or a used one. Both have pros and cons. A used car costs significantly cheaper but there is no comprehensive new-car warranty, not as many safety and convenience features but a questionable maintenance.
As for the timing, the two best times of the year to buy a car are the end of December (when dealers are competing for Christmas shoppers) and between July and October (when dealers are making room for new models).
You should also consider what's the primary use of the car, who'll drive, where will you use the car and so on.
It's o.k. that you already know what you want. The latest Ferrari model, of course. The red one you saw at http://thecarofyourfantasies.com. But maybe you should reconsider it. By the way, did you know that red cars and sports type cars are stopped more often?
Purchasing a new car is a complicated financial operation and a highlight of your life. Take it seriously.
First, have a look at your family budget. Sit down and check all your household expenses, as well as cash on hand and your take-home pay and determine what you can reasonably afford to pay for a new car. According to the experts you shouldn't spend on your car more than 20 percent of your monthly income.
Afterwards check your credit. Start this process months before you plan to purchase, if possible, because if you have incorrect or outdated information that's lowering your score - and therefore raising the interest rate you'll have to pay - it can removed, but it takes at least 60 to 90 days.
To calculate monthly payments, you should factor in proposed purchase price, the down payment, interest rate and term of your loan. All will affect how much you can afford to spend on your car.
Don't worry if you can't get a standard loan, there are alternatives. If the banks, building societies and credit unions won't lend to you because you're self employed, newly arrived in the country or have a poor credit history, consider the booming non-conforming and "low doc" loan market.
A number of non-bank lenders offer loans which especially cater for this type of borrower. The interest rates on non-conforming loans are generally higher but come down after a few years of on-time repayments.
Think about all the expenses of a car: Insurance rates, fuel costs, maintenance, repair and not only the purchase price. Some luxury cars and not American-made cars cost more to repair.
Decide if you want to buy a new car or a used one. Both have pros and cons. A used car costs significantly cheaper but there is no comprehensive new-car warranty, not as many safety and convenience features but a questionable maintenance.
As for the timing, the two best times of the year to buy a car are the end of December (when dealers are competing for Christmas shoppers) and between July and October (when dealers are making room for new models).
You should also consider what's the primary use of the car, who'll drive, where will you use the car and so on.
Tips On Buying A Second Hand Car
Whether to buy a new car or buy a used car is often times the first decision that needs to be arrived at before you can actively begin perusing purchasing your next vehicle.
Let’s take a look at some tips, pros, and cons when it comes to making this decision.
First of all, having been in the automotive business for many years, I almost always lean toward finding a good used car that fits what I am looking for. For me, I believe that used cars offer the best value for your dollar. In most cases, you’ll find used car departments are much more used to and willing to negotiate the price that they have posted on the car. From a negotiating standpoint, most used cars won’t have all of those superfluous dealer ‘add-ons’ stuck on the window either that will just never do.
In the automotive market, used cars will most certainly come with a lower initial price tag than a comparably equipped new car. And not only will the price be lower, you may also find that so is your cost to insure the used car as well as the tags, and taxes. Depreciation being what it is; means that with a car a couple of years old, the biggest depreciation hit has already occurred. And from a tangible perspective, you may have a better chance of getting those upgrades you’d like to have on the used car that you couldn’t otherwise afford going with the new.
Yet, with all of this, buying a used car isn’t for everyone. Finding a used vehicle that fits one’s entire car buying criteria can be a tough exercise in balancing what you want with the value versus risk inherent when it comes to used cars.
Not so many years ago, reliability was a major concern when purchasing a used car… and rightfully so. Today however, reliability problems are a fraction of what they used to be. Today’s vehicles, when properly maintained will easily go for 100,000 miles and it’s not uncommon for vehicles to be motoring along as they approach 200,000 miles or more. And with all of the information now available online, the risk factor is again reduced even a bit more.
Even though more reliable today, buying a used car for people means buying a car that is probably out of its original bumper to bumper warranty. This alone, is enough to repel many potential car buyers back to the new car side of the dealership.
As you know, if you are looking at buying a used car, you are probably looking at a car that is outside the factory warranty or at least would have very little remaining. With no warranty you’ll be on the hook to pay for any needed repairs out of your own pocket. However, the biggest expense for most all cars today are the things that aren’t covered by any manufacturer’s warranty anyway; items such as brakes, tires, alignment, batteries, etc.
Of course nobody can guarantee that you won’t encounter a lemon. No matter what the make and model, no manufacturer can produce a vehicle that can withstand years of neglect and/or abuse. Always, always, always give the used car a thorough inspection both by yourself and a qualified mechanic; doing this will catch most problems that may be looming on the horizon.
When it comes to financing the purchase of a used car, you find that the going interest rates will typically be higher than new car rates. This is definitely a piece of the puzzle you’ll want to check out. There is no rule of thumb as to what the difference in the interest rate will be between the two because there are just too many determining variables involved such as; the economy, rebates and incentives involved on the new car side, your credit, length of financing, and even the type of used car you’re looking at. Be sure to crunch the numbers for both sides.
With used cars, insurance can save you some money as well because you’ll typically pay less for your insurance on a like model from a few years past. The reason is simple; less cost of replacement for the insurance company and used cars are generally not high on the stolen lists.
And finally, (the latest) safety features could be a concern if you’re looking at used car (particularly if you’re going back a few model years).
All in all, if the touch, feel, and smell of a new car, isn’t a top priority for you, I think you’ll find that a well thought out used car purchase you can get more car and features and still be within your budget.
Let’s take a look at some tips, pros, and cons when it comes to making this decision.
First of all, having been in the automotive business for many years, I almost always lean toward finding a good used car that fits what I am looking for. For me, I believe that used cars offer the best value for your dollar. In most cases, you’ll find used car departments are much more used to and willing to negotiate the price that they have posted on the car. From a negotiating standpoint, most used cars won’t have all of those superfluous dealer ‘add-ons’ stuck on the window either that will just never do.
In the automotive market, used cars will most certainly come with a lower initial price tag than a comparably equipped new car. And not only will the price be lower, you may also find that so is your cost to insure the used car as well as the tags, and taxes. Depreciation being what it is; means that with a car a couple of years old, the biggest depreciation hit has already occurred. And from a tangible perspective, you may have a better chance of getting those upgrades you’d like to have on the used car that you couldn’t otherwise afford going with the new.
Yet, with all of this, buying a used car isn’t for everyone. Finding a used vehicle that fits one’s entire car buying criteria can be a tough exercise in balancing what you want with the value versus risk inherent when it comes to used cars.
Not so many years ago, reliability was a major concern when purchasing a used car… and rightfully so. Today however, reliability problems are a fraction of what they used to be. Today’s vehicles, when properly maintained will easily go for 100,000 miles and it’s not uncommon for vehicles to be motoring along as they approach 200,000 miles or more. And with all of the information now available online, the risk factor is again reduced even a bit more.
Even though more reliable today, buying a used car for people means buying a car that is probably out of its original bumper to bumper warranty. This alone, is enough to repel many potential car buyers back to the new car side of the dealership.
As you know, if you are looking at buying a used car, you are probably looking at a car that is outside the factory warranty or at least would have very little remaining. With no warranty you’ll be on the hook to pay for any needed repairs out of your own pocket. However, the biggest expense for most all cars today are the things that aren’t covered by any manufacturer’s warranty anyway; items such as brakes, tires, alignment, batteries, etc.
Of course nobody can guarantee that you won’t encounter a lemon. No matter what the make and model, no manufacturer can produce a vehicle that can withstand years of neglect and/or abuse. Always, always, always give the used car a thorough inspection both by yourself and a qualified mechanic; doing this will catch most problems that may be looming on the horizon.
When it comes to financing the purchase of a used car, you find that the going interest rates will typically be higher than new car rates. This is definitely a piece of the puzzle you’ll want to check out. There is no rule of thumb as to what the difference in the interest rate will be between the two because there are just too many determining variables involved such as; the economy, rebates and incentives involved on the new car side, your credit, length of financing, and even the type of used car you’re looking at. Be sure to crunch the numbers for both sides.
With used cars, insurance can save you some money as well because you’ll typically pay less for your insurance on a like model from a few years past. The reason is simple; less cost of replacement for the insurance company and used cars are generally not high on the stolen lists.
And finally, (the latest) safety features could be a concern if you’re looking at used car (particularly if you’re going back a few model years).
All in all, if the touch, feel, and smell of a new car, isn’t a top priority for you, I think you’ll find that a well thought out used car purchase you can get more car and features and still be within your budget.
Saturday, January 30, 2010
Tips On Selling Your Vehicle
Many car buyers opt to sell their car themselves rather than haggle with the dealer over trade allowance and muddy the waters. Selling a car can be a lot of work, but there are some things you can do to make your vehicle much more marketable and get a better price.
To sell a vehicle, you will need to price it, make any necessary preparations for sale, and find a buyer. The first thing you should do is be realistic about what you have and why you are selling it. If it is on its last leg, acknowledge that and price it accordingly. However, if it is a newer car in good condition, you should take that into account as well.
In order to determine the value of your vehicle, you should consult the major online sources like Kelley Blue Book, NADA, and Edmunds. Be sure to look at trade, retail, and private party values from each source to get a well rounded idea of your vehicle’s potential value. A quick search to see what the same model is selling for in your area is another way to find a decent price for your vehicle. If you are asking several thousand more than everyone else, there should be a good reason, but you should be sure to leave some room for negotiations.
Some cars are very marketable with little or no work, but many can benefit from a little bit of maintenance or attention to appearance. Taking your vehicle to a mechanic and having a state inspection done is cheap and will ensure the buyer can license and register the vehicle without making any repairs, as well as make you aware of any issues. Many small things like squeaky brakes can leave a bad impression on potential buyers, but a mechanic can fix this with a simple cleaning. An oil change, replacing old air filters, wipers, and topping off the fluids will make your vehicle seem well maintained.
Although having your vehicle professionally detailed is not necessary, a thorough cleaning, inside and out, will help you get top dollar for your vehicle. Using Armor All on the interior and tires, replacing ugly floor mats, and applying a coat of wax will make your vehicle as attractive as possible.
It is possible to sell your vehicle by sticking a sign in the window or through personal networking, but listing your car in the local paper or an online source is probably your best bet. Remember, it only takes one curious caller to buy your car, so try to write an ad that focuses on your vehicle’s strong points like mileage, age, equipment, appearance, or reliability. Whether your contact info is for a phone number or email address, think about a quick and honest pitch for your vehicle, but remember that you cannot sell the vehicle over the phone, so try to arrange a test drive if the caller sounds promising.
If you do these things and are willing to bargain, you should not have much trouble selling your vehicle.
To sell a vehicle, you will need to price it, make any necessary preparations for sale, and find a buyer. The first thing you should do is be realistic about what you have and why you are selling it. If it is on its last leg, acknowledge that and price it accordingly. However, if it is a newer car in good condition, you should take that into account as well.
In order to determine the value of your vehicle, you should consult the major online sources like Kelley Blue Book, NADA, and Edmunds. Be sure to look at trade, retail, and private party values from each source to get a well rounded idea of your vehicle’s potential value. A quick search to see what the same model is selling for in your area is another way to find a decent price for your vehicle. If you are asking several thousand more than everyone else, there should be a good reason, but you should be sure to leave some room for negotiations.
Some cars are very marketable with little or no work, but many can benefit from a little bit of maintenance or attention to appearance. Taking your vehicle to a mechanic and having a state inspection done is cheap and will ensure the buyer can license and register the vehicle without making any repairs, as well as make you aware of any issues. Many small things like squeaky brakes can leave a bad impression on potential buyers, but a mechanic can fix this with a simple cleaning. An oil change, replacing old air filters, wipers, and topping off the fluids will make your vehicle seem well maintained.
Although having your vehicle professionally detailed is not necessary, a thorough cleaning, inside and out, will help you get top dollar for your vehicle. Using Armor All on the interior and tires, replacing ugly floor mats, and applying a coat of wax will make your vehicle as attractive as possible.
It is possible to sell your vehicle by sticking a sign in the window or through personal networking, but listing your car in the local paper or an online source is probably your best bet. Remember, it only takes one curious caller to buy your car, so try to write an ad that focuses on your vehicle’s strong points like mileage, age, equipment, appearance, or reliability. Whether your contact info is for a phone number or email address, think about a quick and honest pitch for your vehicle, but remember that you cannot sell the vehicle over the phone, so try to arrange a test drive if the caller sounds promising.
If you do these things and are willing to bargain, you should not have much trouble selling your vehicle.
Tire Insurance: Myths And Facts About Road Hazard Policies
Insurance—it’s everywhere. One can insure just about anything. Are tires an investment one needs to insure? Tire insurance, also called a road hazard policy, road hazard warranty, or tire reimbursement plan, is a rapidly growing industry in the automotive world.
Tire warranty plans pay in full or in part for the replacement or repair of damaged tires and/or rims from “road hazards.” Road hazards are defined as pot holes, debris, nails, wood, and other hazards found in the road. Curbs, sidewalks, and stone walls are not road hazards. This is an important distinction to consider when deciding if tire insurance is right for you (discussed further ahead).
Tire plans last for a specific period of time and tire wear tread-depth. Some plans last 2-3 years. Others can last 5 years or 60,000 miles. Several plans come with fixed amounts of coverage: $500 per year up to 4 years. Many contracts require three years of law school to comprehend. In terms of tread depth, a tire is usually considered worn out (and thus the plan null and void) at 2/32 to 3/32 of an inch.
Another important distinction is in the type of plan.
Tire reimbursement plans are just what they say. You, the plan holder, will be reimbursed after the claims process is finalized—usually 2-8 weeks. There is an out-of-pocket expense. These plans are often sold by new car dealerships. The prices can range from $300 to $600 dollars.
Road hazard policies operate similarly to reimbursement plans. However, some tire insurance providers, in partnership with the repair facility, may have a direct-pay relationship. Thus, there would be no out-of-pocket expense, except for applicable deductibles, and items not covered in part or in full. These plans are primarily sold by tire dealers and repairshops. The prices range from $10 to $30 per tire. They also can be based on a percentage of the cost of the tire: usually 12% to 15%.
Both types of plans have a number of variables, requiring a magnifying glass to read the fine print. Also, many are pro-rated warranties, covering only a percentage of the cost of the tire based on its wear.
Claims and Coverage:
Depending on the plan, claims are initiated by the repair shop. The process is fairly smooth, although there can be a significant delay from the provider for authorization. This delay may be an hour or an entire weekend. This means that you’ll have to “ok” the tire replacement, and then hope it’s authorized for the full amount, or drive on your spare.
Some plans offer national coverage either among their service facilities or from other repair centers. Claims procedures will vary. Others only provide local coverage, or coverage at the selling facility.
Limitations:
Tire insurance does not mean that everything is covered. Pro-rated warranties are based on the wear and tear of the tire. You may get 75%, 50%, or only 10% coverage depending on the tread-depth. You’ll pay the remainder. While there are plans that offer full coverage, even these have limitations, or they may conflict with a repair shop’s policies.
For example, many plans allow for a maximum of $30 to mount and balance one tire, and a maximum of $15 to repair a tire. However, sport tires often have significantly higher mounting and balancing fees—upwards of $50 per tire—and tire repair prices can exceed $90. There are also discrepancies on the tire and rim prices themselves, which in the end, may have to be supplemented by the service customer.
Although there usually is not an issue with the latter given the competitive market, the service center’s price mark up may be unacceptable to the plan provider. In this case, the service center needs to lower the price or you, the service customer, need to pay the difference—or go somewhere else. This does happen!
Rim Prices and Repairs:
Rim replacement is becoming less frequent. With the high cost of aluminum wheels and sport wheel packages, tire insurers have opted to have them repaired. Repair will only be done if the rim does not hold air. What this means is that even if the rim is warped—enough to cause a vibration and even premature tire wear—they won’t replace it. Rather, they will send it out to be straightened and repaired.
Rims are replaced only if the damage is so extensive that the new tire, when mounted on the rim, won’t hold air. However, even in this case, especially if it’s an expensive sport wheel, they may still attempt to repair it.
Repairing rims is a bad option. While some rim repair is acceptable, badly warped or damaged rims will in no way ever be the same.
Alignments:
If a car hits a road hazard hard enough, such as a pot hole, it’s wise to have the alignment checked. Road hazard policies and tire reimbursement plans do not cover alignments. The service customer will have to pay for this procedure.
Road Hazard Protection Positives:
Some plans include tire rotations, wheel balancing, and nationwide coverage.
Myths:
1) "Can I pop all 4 tires and get a new set of tires?"
You can try. But this type of claim will trigger a number of red flags with the insurer. The policy holder will likely send out adjusters and/or require photographs. You will also have a difficult time explaining how a “road hazard” caused all 4 tire pop.
2) "New tires come with a road hazard warranty."
New tires do come with a warranty by the tire manufacturer. However, it only covers defects in workmanship. New tire warranties do not cover punctures or damages from external sources. This is why "road hazard" protection is being pushed.
New tires are rarely defective. If there is a problem, it’s usually noticed when balancing the tire. Or, there is a drivability concern such as vibration or noise. If there’s a defect it’s generally caught right away, and the tire swapped out.
3) "It’s so cheap; it’s a no-brainer, right?"
Actually, the experts don't agree with this statement.
The Economics of Tire Warranties:
An article from the Washington Post by Terence O’Hara explains the economics of extended warranties and purchase protection plans in general. It is quite fitting for road hazard warranties. He writes:
"The decision to buy an extended warranty…defies the recommendations of economists, consumer advocates and product quality experts, who all warn that the plans rarely benefit consumers and are nearly always a waste of money.
‘[Extended warranties or purchase protection plans] make no rational sense,’ Harvard economist David Cutler said. ‘The implied probability [of having an issue with the product] has to be substantially greater than the risk that you can’t afford to fix it or replace it. If you’re buying a $400 item, for the overwhelming number of consumers that level of spending is not a risk you need to insure under any circumstances.’"
In short, road hazard warranties are a waste of money. Don’t insure that which you can afford to replace.
Numbers Game and Slim Chances:
Like all insurance, tire insurance plans are a numbers game. However, this is a game you have a 98% chance of losing. Insider statistics show that the percentage of claims paid out by providers is as low a 2%.
Curbs:
Another interesting note is that a lot of tire damage is caused by curbs. Curb damage is not covered under most road hazard policies. High granite curbs with sharp edges slice through tens of thousands of tires per year.
You Won’t Notice:
Many people don’t even notice tire damage. Other than to see if the tires are holding air, who “really” looks at tires? Tires are subject to a whole host of external influences which cause bubbles, slices and gouges.
Despite the potential dangers of damaged tires, the damage very often does not translate into any noticeable drivability issue. The point is that if you don’t notice any tire damage you can’t benefit from the coverage.
Research Shows:
Those raving about the benefits of a road hazard policy are the actual folks in the industry who stand to benefit from the sale. They’ll argue that it’s so cheap—only $10 to $20 per tire. Even so, for four tires, that’s $80 based on the “possibility,” the “chance,” of damaging a tire that meets the repair/replacement requirement protocols.
Auto Insurance:
If a rim and tire has incurred significant damage, it’s quite likely that other problems have resulted as well. The first is that the vehicle may have been jarred out of alignment. Secondly, hub bearings, front end components: tie rods, spindles, ball joints, and a variety of other components may have sustained damage. In this case, auto insurance, which you are already paying for, will pay for everything—brand new.
Free Road Hazard Warranties:
Many tires come with road hazard warranties FREE. In other words, in an effort to secure retailers, many tire distributors provide service centers FREE road hazard insurance. Some shops pass this on to their tire customers, others sell them. Ask if the tire “comes” with a road hazard protection policy. If not, request that one be provided at no additional charge. It’s worth a shot.
Also, some car manufacturers provide road hazard warranties FREE of charge for 12 months or 12,000 miles. If you’re buying a new car or even used, ask that the dealer provide a complimentary road hazard policy (after all the wheeling and dealing is done, of course), and just before you commit.
"What’s the best road hazard policy?"
Money in "your" bank account.
Tire warranty plans pay in full or in part for the replacement or repair of damaged tires and/or rims from “road hazards.” Road hazards are defined as pot holes, debris, nails, wood, and other hazards found in the road. Curbs, sidewalks, and stone walls are not road hazards. This is an important distinction to consider when deciding if tire insurance is right for you (discussed further ahead).
Tire plans last for a specific period of time and tire wear tread-depth. Some plans last 2-3 years. Others can last 5 years or 60,000 miles. Several plans come with fixed amounts of coverage: $500 per year up to 4 years. Many contracts require three years of law school to comprehend. In terms of tread depth, a tire is usually considered worn out (and thus the plan null and void) at 2/32 to 3/32 of an inch.
Another important distinction is in the type of plan.
Tire reimbursement plans are just what they say. You, the plan holder, will be reimbursed after the claims process is finalized—usually 2-8 weeks. There is an out-of-pocket expense. These plans are often sold by new car dealerships. The prices can range from $300 to $600 dollars.
Road hazard policies operate similarly to reimbursement plans. However, some tire insurance providers, in partnership with the repair facility, may have a direct-pay relationship. Thus, there would be no out-of-pocket expense, except for applicable deductibles, and items not covered in part or in full. These plans are primarily sold by tire dealers and repairshops. The prices range from $10 to $30 per tire. They also can be based on a percentage of the cost of the tire: usually 12% to 15%.
Both types of plans have a number of variables, requiring a magnifying glass to read the fine print. Also, many are pro-rated warranties, covering only a percentage of the cost of the tire based on its wear.
Claims and Coverage:
Depending on the plan, claims are initiated by the repair shop. The process is fairly smooth, although there can be a significant delay from the provider for authorization. This delay may be an hour or an entire weekend. This means that you’ll have to “ok” the tire replacement, and then hope it’s authorized for the full amount, or drive on your spare.
Some plans offer national coverage either among their service facilities or from other repair centers. Claims procedures will vary. Others only provide local coverage, or coverage at the selling facility.
Limitations:
Tire insurance does not mean that everything is covered. Pro-rated warranties are based on the wear and tear of the tire. You may get 75%, 50%, or only 10% coverage depending on the tread-depth. You’ll pay the remainder. While there are plans that offer full coverage, even these have limitations, or they may conflict with a repair shop’s policies.
For example, many plans allow for a maximum of $30 to mount and balance one tire, and a maximum of $15 to repair a tire. However, sport tires often have significantly higher mounting and balancing fees—upwards of $50 per tire—and tire repair prices can exceed $90. There are also discrepancies on the tire and rim prices themselves, which in the end, may have to be supplemented by the service customer.
Although there usually is not an issue with the latter given the competitive market, the service center’s price mark up may be unacceptable to the plan provider. In this case, the service center needs to lower the price or you, the service customer, need to pay the difference—or go somewhere else. This does happen!
Rim Prices and Repairs:
Rim replacement is becoming less frequent. With the high cost of aluminum wheels and sport wheel packages, tire insurers have opted to have them repaired. Repair will only be done if the rim does not hold air. What this means is that even if the rim is warped—enough to cause a vibration and even premature tire wear—they won’t replace it. Rather, they will send it out to be straightened and repaired.
Rims are replaced only if the damage is so extensive that the new tire, when mounted on the rim, won’t hold air. However, even in this case, especially if it’s an expensive sport wheel, they may still attempt to repair it.
Repairing rims is a bad option. While some rim repair is acceptable, badly warped or damaged rims will in no way ever be the same.
Alignments:
If a car hits a road hazard hard enough, such as a pot hole, it’s wise to have the alignment checked. Road hazard policies and tire reimbursement plans do not cover alignments. The service customer will have to pay for this procedure.
Road Hazard Protection Positives:
Some plans include tire rotations, wheel balancing, and nationwide coverage.
Myths:
1) "Can I pop all 4 tires and get a new set of tires?"
You can try. But this type of claim will trigger a number of red flags with the insurer. The policy holder will likely send out adjusters and/or require photographs. You will also have a difficult time explaining how a “road hazard” caused all 4 tire pop.
2) "New tires come with a road hazard warranty."
New tires do come with a warranty by the tire manufacturer. However, it only covers defects in workmanship. New tire warranties do not cover punctures or damages from external sources. This is why "road hazard" protection is being pushed.
New tires are rarely defective. If there is a problem, it’s usually noticed when balancing the tire. Or, there is a drivability concern such as vibration or noise. If there’s a defect it’s generally caught right away, and the tire swapped out.
3) "It’s so cheap; it’s a no-brainer, right?"
Actually, the experts don't agree with this statement.
The Economics of Tire Warranties:
An article from the Washington Post by Terence O’Hara explains the economics of extended warranties and purchase protection plans in general. It is quite fitting for road hazard warranties. He writes:
"The decision to buy an extended warranty…defies the recommendations of economists, consumer advocates and product quality experts, who all warn that the plans rarely benefit consumers and are nearly always a waste of money.
‘[Extended warranties or purchase protection plans] make no rational sense,’ Harvard economist David Cutler said. ‘The implied probability [of having an issue with the product] has to be substantially greater than the risk that you can’t afford to fix it or replace it. If you’re buying a $400 item, for the overwhelming number of consumers that level of spending is not a risk you need to insure under any circumstances.’"
In short, road hazard warranties are a waste of money. Don’t insure that which you can afford to replace.
Numbers Game and Slim Chances:
Like all insurance, tire insurance plans are a numbers game. However, this is a game you have a 98% chance of losing. Insider statistics show that the percentage of claims paid out by providers is as low a 2%.
Curbs:
Another interesting note is that a lot of tire damage is caused by curbs. Curb damage is not covered under most road hazard policies. High granite curbs with sharp edges slice through tens of thousands of tires per year.
You Won’t Notice:
Many people don’t even notice tire damage. Other than to see if the tires are holding air, who “really” looks at tires? Tires are subject to a whole host of external influences which cause bubbles, slices and gouges.
Despite the potential dangers of damaged tires, the damage very often does not translate into any noticeable drivability issue. The point is that if you don’t notice any tire damage you can’t benefit from the coverage.
Research Shows:
Those raving about the benefits of a road hazard policy are the actual folks in the industry who stand to benefit from the sale. They’ll argue that it’s so cheap—only $10 to $20 per tire. Even so, for four tires, that’s $80 based on the “possibility,” the “chance,” of damaging a tire that meets the repair/replacement requirement protocols.
Auto Insurance:
If a rim and tire has incurred significant damage, it’s quite likely that other problems have resulted as well. The first is that the vehicle may have been jarred out of alignment. Secondly, hub bearings, front end components: tie rods, spindles, ball joints, and a variety of other components may have sustained damage. In this case, auto insurance, which you are already paying for, will pay for everything—brand new.
Free Road Hazard Warranties:
Many tires come with road hazard warranties FREE. In other words, in an effort to secure retailers, many tire distributors provide service centers FREE road hazard insurance. Some shops pass this on to their tire customers, others sell them. Ask if the tire “comes” with a road hazard protection policy. If not, request that one be provided at no additional charge. It’s worth a shot.
Also, some car manufacturers provide road hazard warranties FREE of charge for 12 months or 12,000 miles. If you’re buying a new car or even used, ask that the dealer provide a complimentary road hazard policy (after all the wheeling and dealing is done, of course), and just before you commit.
"What’s the best road hazard policy?"
Money in "your" bank account.
Tire Recalls For Tread Separation Still Plague Automotive Sector
Firestone had to undertake a massive tire recall back in 2000 involving tires made for SUVs. Out of some 14 million sold, the approximately 6.5 million still on the road were recalled.
The story, highlighted by numerous rollover deaths, remained in the news for months, and had a severe impact on the manufacturer. Among other things, angry consumers often were told that replacement tires were not in stock. The recall did not go smoothly. Congressional investigations followed, and new tire safety legislation was enacted.
Reminiscent of those days are two recent tire recalls involving the same defect that prompted the 2000 recall, namely tread separation and high failure rates, risking dangerous blowouts. The danger is exacerbated in hot summer months.
Now, as if there are not enough woes with recalls of Chinese products, you can to the list of tire recalls some 450,000 tires imported from China. This recall is especially troublesome as will become evident from the story.
The current problem arises out of instances of tread separation of truck tires sold to U.S. distributors. The tires are light truck radials imported from the Hangzhou Zhongce Rubber Co. located in Hangzhou, China. The problem is compounded by the fact that the recall does not involve a manufacturer that has a large U.S presence like Firestone.
In fact, the importer is a small New Jersey company with only six employees which lacks the funds to implement a recall. It doesn't even have a warehouse. Apparently the tires are drop shipped from the manufacturer directly to U.S. distributors. The Chinese company is not being cooperative according to the National Highway Traffic Safety Administration (NHTSA). There allegedly have been two rollover deaths attributable to the tires.
The NHTSA has received some criticism based on indications that it was informed of the problem as early as 2005 and took no action.
Another recall just occurred (in 2007) involving the Cooper Tire & Rubber Co. Again, the hazard is tread separation dangers with about 92,000 light truck tires. Cooper denies that there is any defect, but is cooperating in doing a recall. Cooper had previously imported tires from the Hangzhou manufacturer, but ceased in 2005. The tires recalled in 2007 were made in the U.S. Cooper is the second largest U.S. tire manufacturer.
While it's comforting to know the these defects are being identified, it seems that from a consumer perspective, the massive recall in 2000, coupled with subsequent federal legislation, ought to have eliminated tread separation problems. Evidently this is not the case. Obviously, consumers should not be complacent about tire safety concerns which continue to plague the tire industry in the form of tread separation dangers.
The story, highlighted by numerous rollover deaths, remained in the news for months, and had a severe impact on the manufacturer. Among other things, angry consumers often were told that replacement tires were not in stock. The recall did not go smoothly. Congressional investigations followed, and new tire safety legislation was enacted.
Reminiscent of those days are two recent tire recalls involving the same defect that prompted the 2000 recall, namely tread separation and high failure rates, risking dangerous blowouts. The danger is exacerbated in hot summer months.
Now, as if there are not enough woes with recalls of Chinese products, you can to the list of tire recalls some 450,000 tires imported from China. This recall is especially troublesome as will become evident from the story.
The current problem arises out of instances of tread separation of truck tires sold to U.S. distributors. The tires are light truck radials imported from the Hangzhou Zhongce Rubber Co. located in Hangzhou, China. The problem is compounded by the fact that the recall does not involve a manufacturer that has a large U.S presence like Firestone.
In fact, the importer is a small New Jersey company with only six employees which lacks the funds to implement a recall. It doesn't even have a warehouse. Apparently the tires are drop shipped from the manufacturer directly to U.S. distributors. The Chinese company is not being cooperative according to the National Highway Traffic Safety Administration (NHTSA). There allegedly have been two rollover deaths attributable to the tires.
The NHTSA has received some criticism based on indications that it was informed of the problem as early as 2005 and took no action.
Another recall just occurred (in 2007) involving the Cooper Tire & Rubber Co. Again, the hazard is tread separation dangers with about 92,000 light truck tires. Cooper denies that there is any defect, but is cooperating in doing a recall. Cooper had previously imported tires from the Hangzhou manufacturer, but ceased in 2005. The tires recalled in 2007 were made in the U.S. Cooper is the second largest U.S. tire manufacturer.
While it's comforting to know the these defects are being identified, it seems that from a consumer perspective, the massive recall in 2000, coupled with subsequent federal legislation, ought to have eliminated tread separation problems. Evidently this is not the case. Obviously, consumers should not be complacent about tire safety concerns which continue to plague the tire industry in the form of tread separation dangers.
Tire Safety: Benefits Of Temperature & Pressure Monitoring
Tires play a critical role in the handling, maneuvering and braking of any motor vehicle. No matter what the type…RV, SUV, utility vehicle or commercial truck, tires are the only thing that contacts the road. Obviously, there is much more than just the vehicle resting on those tires…its overall safe operation is as well. By following some basic tire safety practices, you will not only drive with a greater degree of security, you will extend the usable life of your tire investment considerably.
Tire Manufacturers Agree
It is commonly agreed that a primary cause of early tire breakdown and poor tread life is under-inflation. Low tire pressure not only causes excessive heat build-up in the tire, creating dangerous driving conditions, but also shortens tire life. Unwanted heat will rapidly increase tread-wear and can even tear down retreads and destroy tire casings. As much as 90% of all tire breakdowns is the direct result of tire under-inflation
The Low Pressure Problem
Under-inflation of tires is a serious safety concern because it forces excessive flexing on the sidewalls. This additional strain on the tire can build up more internal heat, resulting in the aforementioned hazards and premature tire failure. Research completed by the U.S. National Traffic and Safety Administration shows that one in three cars or light trucks are being driven with at least one significantly under-inflated tire. These improperly inflated tires wear out more quickly because they put more drag on the road (rolling resistance). This also leads to a reduction in fuel economy, something most individuals and fleet owners definitely want to avoid.
Pressure Influences Tread Wear
Maintaining proper tire pressure levels improves tread mileage as indicated below:
• A continuous 10% over-inflation reduces tread wear by 5%
• Tire Life will be reduced by 30% if constantly under-inflated by 20%
• For every 10 PSI (pounds per square inch) under-inflated, fuel consumption is increased 0.5%
• A continuous 20% under-inflation decreases tread wear by 25%
By example, consider at an average price of a $250, a 20% under-inflated commercial truck or RV tire costs about $50 each in lost usage. Add in the costs of downtime, repairs and service fees; the picture becomes even clearer.
Fuel Efficiency Impact
Tire inflation also has a direct impact on fuel efficiency, since under-inflated tires can consume a greater percentage of each gallon of fuel just because of rolling resistance. The US Department of Energy advises that tires can account for as much as a 3.3% difference in fuel efficiency. The Department of Transportation's (D.O.T.) studies have shown that the United States could save over 4.2 million gallons of fuel per day… just by keeping tires properly inflated!
Managing Fleet Maintenance Costs
Tires can account for as much as 36% of a vehicle's maintenance cost. Yet this essential maintenance procedure, of regularly checking tire pressure, is one of the most difficult to enforce. Even the best preventive maintenance programs will discover truck drivers and even maintenance personnel will often short cut this time consuming procedure. In certain cases some tires are skipped, assuming if a few are good, the rest are as well. In other cases, this extremely important procedure is ignored entirely. With tires usually being the highest maintenance expense, can any fleet afford to ignore the direct cost consequence of poorly maintained tires?
Make Checking a Habit
To guarantee the greatest tire life, keep them properly inflated at all times. For smaller vehicles driven locally, check the tires at a minimum of once a month. If you travel longer distance for work or play, check the tires more often. If you’re a truck driver accustomed to "thumping tires," consider that this practice is unreliable and unsafe. An under-inflated tire is extremely difficult to detect by visual inspection or by thumping. Utilizing either of these methods is an accident waiting to happen. Don't guess, don't thump, measure with a quality tire gauge or a real-time tire monitoring system.
Dealing with Duals
Vehicles with dual tires have a hidden tire (inner tire position) behind the outside tire. They are more difficult to reach and easier to neglect. Checking the air pressure of the inside tires is an utter necessity. Even if an inside tire is completely flat, it will be supported by the outside tire, making it appear properly inflated. In the case of a flat inside rear tire, which appears properly inflated, the outer tire is doing all the work. The result is a tire at major risk to overheat, rupture or if a retread, the possibility of the tread releasing from the casing…something that leads to major highway accidents.
Wireless Tire Pressure Monitoring
In the case of multi-tire motor vehicles such as commercial trucks, RVs, fire trucks and EMS vehicles, there are many tires to monitor. This in itself makes for time-consuming work, plus these tires need to be checked much more often. By the nature of these types of vehicles, they are often in consistent use, over longer traveling distance, in demanding environments and isolated travel areas. To help with the task of supervising tires, there are products called Tire Pressure Monitoring Systems, sometimes referred to as TPMS. Utilizing a wireless sensor (which is either screwed directly onto the valve-stem or mounted internally in the tire) each individual tire on the vehicle can be monitored in real time. The actual pressure levels and temperature are then displayed on a small unit in the cab.
If you are considering investing in a Tire Pressure Monitoring System (TPMS), at a minimum look for these feature and capabilities:
• Alerts when tire pressure is too low
• Alerts when tire pressure is too high
• Alerts when the tire temperature is too high (heat is what destroys tires!)
• Alerts driver with both visual and auditory warnings
• Capable of monitoring both the vehicle and a trailer
Other things to consider when evaluating TPMS solutions:
• Are the wireless tire-sensors internally or externally mounted? - External mount tire sensors are easier to install, easily removable in case of a tire change and can be moved to a spare if need be. The more tires you have, the greater the savings; it is costly to dismount/remount internal type sensors, as apposed to external.
• Does it monitor the tires continuously, even when parked? - Tire pressure is most accurate when the tire is cold, before the vehicle is moving. Knowing the pressure level before setting out on a long trip can prevent uncertainty later on down the road.
• Are the pressure (high and low) and the tire temperature alert levels adjustable by the user? - Setting the trigger levels can be advantageous for applications with varying loads, such as a truck/trailer combination. Some vehicles experience tire cupping after a load change that can also cause uneven and excessive wear.
• Does it monitor tire temperature? – For safety reasons, it is very important to know tire temperature. A tire can be as much as 30% under-inflated and still appear to be normal (rolling resistance increases the heat, which in turn expands the tire). This is the same reason we measure pressure when the tires are cold.
General Tire Safety Recommendations
• Follow inflation guidelines indicated on tire sidewall, while making sure they are rated to support more than the gross weight of the vehicle
• Commercial trucks, trailers and RV's require an accurate reading (of the fully loaded weight) for proper tire inflation to carry those loads. These types of vehicles are usually weighed to obtain an accurate reading.
• Check the pressure on all tires including those on the tow vehicle, trailers, 5th wheels, etc.
• Check pressure when the tires are cold, prior to driving the vehicle
• Replace tires every three to 5 years (regardless of mileage)
• Visibly inspect tires for blemishes, uneven wear and tire pressure at least every 30 days.
By monitoring your vehicles tires, you will increase their life, reduce fuel consumption and provide unprecedented value in improved handling and ultimate safety.
Tire Manufacturers Agree
It is commonly agreed that a primary cause of early tire breakdown and poor tread life is under-inflation. Low tire pressure not only causes excessive heat build-up in the tire, creating dangerous driving conditions, but also shortens tire life. Unwanted heat will rapidly increase tread-wear and can even tear down retreads and destroy tire casings. As much as 90% of all tire breakdowns is the direct result of tire under-inflation
The Low Pressure Problem
Under-inflation of tires is a serious safety concern because it forces excessive flexing on the sidewalls. This additional strain on the tire can build up more internal heat, resulting in the aforementioned hazards and premature tire failure. Research completed by the U.S. National Traffic and Safety Administration shows that one in three cars or light trucks are being driven with at least one significantly under-inflated tire. These improperly inflated tires wear out more quickly because they put more drag on the road (rolling resistance). This also leads to a reduction in fuel economy, something most individuals and fleet owners definitely want to avoid.
Pressure Influences Tread Wear
Maintaining proper tire pressure levels improves tread mileage as indicated below:
• A continuous 10% over-inflation reduces tread wear by 5%
• Tire Life will be reduced by 30% if constantly under-inflated by 20%
• For every 10 PSI (pounds per square inch) under-inflated, fuel consumption is increased 0.5%
• A continuous 20% under-inflation decreases tread wear by 25%
By example, consider at an average price of a $250, a 20% under-inflated commercial truck or RV tire costs about $50 each in lost usage. Add in the costs of downtime, repairs and service fees; the picture becomes even clearer.
Fuel Efficiency Impact
Tire inflation also has a direct impact on fuel efficiency, since under-inflated tires can consume a greater percentage of each gallon of fuel just because of rolling resistance. The US Department of Energy advises that tires can account for as much as a 3.3% difference in fuel efficiency. The Department of Transportation's (D.O.T.) studies have shown that the United States could save over 4.2 million gallons of fuel per day… just by keeping tires properly inflated!
Managing Fleet Maintenance Costs
Tires can account for as much as 36% of a vehicle's maintenance cost. Yet this essential maintenance procedure, of regularly checking tire pressure, is one of the most difficult to enforce. Even the best preventive maintenance programs will discover truck drivers and even maintenance personnel will often short cut this time consuming procedure. In certain cases some tires are skipped, assuming if a few are good, the rest are as well. In other cases, this extremely important procedure is ignored entirely. With tires usually being the highest maintenance expense, can any fleet afford to ignore the direct cost consequence of poorly maintained tires?
Make Checking a Habit
To guarantee the greatest tire life, keep them properly inflated at all times. For smaller vehicles driven locally, check the tires at a minimum of once a month. If you travel longer distance for work or play, check the tires more often. If you’re a truck driver accustomed to "thumping tires," consider that this practice is unreliable and unsafe. An under-inflated tire is extremely difficult to detect by visual inspection or by thumping. Utilizing either of these methods is an accident waiting to happen. Don't guess, don't thump, measure with a quality tire gauge or a real-time tire monitoring system.
Dealing with Duals
Vehicles with dual tires have a hidden tire (inner tire position) behind the outside tire. They are more difficult to reach and easier to neglect. Checking the air pressure of the inside tires is an utter necessity. Even if an inside tire is completely flat, it will be supported by the outside tire, making it appear properly inflated. In the case of a flat inside rear tire, which appears properly inflated, the outer tire is doing all the work. The result is a tire at major risk to overheat, rupture or if a retread, the possibility of the tread releasing from the casing…something that leads to major highway accidents.
Wireless Tire Pressure Monitoring
In the case of multi-tire motor vehicles such as commercial trucks, RVs, fire trucks and EMS vehicles, there are many tires to monitor. This in itself makes for time-consuming work, plus these tires need to be checked much more often. By the nature of these types of vehicles, they are often in consistent use, over longer traveling distance, in demanding environments and isolated travel areas. To help with the task of supervising tires, there are products called Tire Pressure Monitoring Systems, sometimes referred to as TPMS. Utilizing a wireless sensor (which is either screwed directly onto the valve-stem or mounted internally in the tire) each individual tire on the vehicle can be monitored in real time. The actual pressure levels and temperature are then displayed on a small unit in the cab.
If you are considering investing in a Tire Pressure Monitoring System (TPMS), at a minimum look for these feature and capabilities:
• Alerts when tire pressure is too low
• Alerts when tire pressure is too high
• Alerts when the tire temperature is too high (heat is what destroys tires!)
• Alerts driver with both visual and auditory warnings
• Capable of monitoring both the vehicle and a trailer
Other things to consider when evaluating TPMS solutions:
• Are the wireless tire-sensors internally or externally mounted? - External mount tire sensors are easier to install, easily removable in case of a tire change and can be moved to a spare if need be. The more tires you have, the greater the savings; it is costly to dismount/remount internal type sensors, as apposed to external.
• Does it monitor the tires continuously, even when parked? - Tire pressure is most accurate when the tire is cold, before the vehicle is moving. Knowing the pressure level before setting out on a long trip can prevent uncertainty later on down the road.
• Are the pressure (high and low) and the tire temperature alert levels adjustable by the user? - Setting the trigger levels can be advantageous for applications with varying loads, such as a truck/trailer combination. Some vehicles experience tire cupping after a load change that can also cause uneven and excessive wear.
• Does it monitor tire temperature? – For safety reasons, it is very important to know tire temperature. A tire can be as much as 30% under-inflated and still appear to be normal (rolling resistance increases the heat, which in turn expands the tire). This is the same reason we measure pressure when the tires are cold.
General Tire Safety Recommendations
• Follow inflation guidelines indicated on tire sidewall, while making sure they are rated to support more than the gross weight of the vehicle
• Commercial trucks, trailers and RV's require an accurate reading (of the fully loaded weight) for proper tire inflation to carry those loads. These types of vehicles are usually weighed to obtain an accurate reading.
• Check the pressure on all tires including those on the tow vehicle, trailers, 5th wheels, etc.
• Check pressure when the tires are cold, prior to driving the vehicle
• Replace tires every three to 5 years (regardless of mileage)
• Visibly inspect tires for blemishes, uneven wear and tire pressure at least every 30 days.
By monitoring your vehicles tires, you will increase their life, reduce fuel consumption and provide unprecedented value in improved handling and ultimate safety.
Tires, Your Most Essential Truck Accessory
There you are, driving along the highway in your 4X4 when you glance off to the side only to see an oh-so-inviting muddy logging trail. "Can't pass this one up", you say to yourself, as you tug on the steering wheel and head off to 4-wheeler's heaven. Next thing you know, you're using your cell phone (if it works out in no-man's land) to call a tow truck. What happened? In the excitement of the moment, did you forget you still had highway tires on your truck? Oops!
Most light trucks come equipped with All Purpose tires, which are fine for everyday driving. But if you're an offroad enthusiast, you'll want to take the time to find the tire that's perfect for your offroad adventures. And there are plenty of options.
ALL-SEASON (All-Purpose) TIRES. These tires are adequate for driving in all four seasons. Most carry an M/S designation (Mud/Snow) but are really meant only for light snow. They don't have the proper rubber compound for cold weather, nor the open tread block pattern for the traction provided by a snow tire.
ALL-TERRAIN TIRES. These tires are a compromise for those who use their truck for general daily driving with only occasional off-road use. Surprisingly, they are designed with added grip for "all terrain", dirt, sand, wet surfaces, light snow and light mud. But they are also good for general highway use and are relatively quiet on pavement. If you're going to be driving in heavy snow or thick mud, however, you need to move on to a tire designed with that purpose in mind.
SNOW TIRES. If you drive in light snow sporadically, you don't necessarily need snow tires--all-season tires should do the trick. But if you live in a severe-weather climate (or do a lot of driving in heavy snow), snow tires are for you. Snow tires have an open tread block pattern for better traction and should be narrower. More importantly, they are manufactured with a rubber compound that is more flexible in cold weather. The colder the climate, the less suitable your all-season tire becomes.
STUDDED SNOW TIRES. These are for icy winter conditions. They are "studded" (have metal posts embedded in them), allowing for up to 40% better traction in hard-packed snow and ice than an all-season tire. The downside, however, is the increased noise level as well as the fact that traction is decreased on dry and wet surfaces. Beyond that, due to the fact that they tend to "chew up" the pavement, many regions have either banned them all together or restricted their use to certain months of the year.
WINTER TIRES. Winter tires provide better traction in snowy and icy conditions. Their tread patterns and tread compounds are specifically designed for winter conditions. These tires perform better not only in snow, but also in slush and rain. And they're generally quieter than the snow tire. Look for the snowflake/mountain symbol which means they are certified to have met specific snow traction requirements.
MUD TIRES. If you're mudbogging, you need wide tires with large lugs. The lugs should have deep voids in between to expel the mud, allowing for better traction at each rotation. These tires, however, are generally loud on the highway, although you may find some exceptions. Mud tires are also good for rock climbing, sand and unpacked snow but do not perform well in icy conditions or in rain.
Two additional points to keep in mind ... don't try to cut corners by changing out only two tires. All four tires, whether they are snow tires or mud tires, should be the same. Two just won't do. And while the above list does not include any particular brand recommendations, the quickest, most reliable way to choose a good tire brand is to talk to other offroad entusiasts and find out what they're using in your area.
So there you have it. Tires are the most important truck accessory. Always make sure you have the right tires for the right job and you'll never have to embarrass yourself by calling a friend to come tow you out of an ugly mess.
Most light trucks come equipped with All Purpose tires, which are fine for everyday driving. But if you're an offroad enthusiast, you'll want to take the time to find the tire that's perfect for your offroad adventures. And there are plenty of options.
ALL-SEASON (All-Purpose) TIRES. These tires are adequate for driving in all four seasons. Most carry an M/S designation (Mud/Snow) but are really meant only for light snow. They don't have the proper rubber compound for cold weather, nor the open tread block pattern for the traction provided by a snow tire.
ALL-TERRAIN TIRES. These tires are a compromise for those who use their truck for general daily driving with only occasional off-road use. Surprisingly, they are designed with added grip for "all terrain", dirt, sand, wet surfaces, light snow and light mud. But they are also good for general highway use and are relatively quiet on pavement. If you're going to be driving in heavy snow or thick mud, however, you need to move on to a tire designed with that purpose in mind.
SNOW TIRES. If you drive in light snow sporadically, you don't necessarily need snow tires--all-season tires should do the trick. But if you live in a severe-weather climate (or do a lot of driving in heavy snow), snow tires are for you. Snow tires have an open tread block pattern for better traction and should be narrower. More importantly, they are manufactured with a rubber compound that is more flexible in cold weather. The colder the climate, the less suitable your all-season tire becomes.
STUDDED SNOW TIRES. These are for icy winter conditions. They are "studded" (have metal posts embedded in them), allowing for up to 40% better traction in hard-packed snow and ice than an all-season tire. The downside, however, is the increased noise level as well as the fact that traction is decreased on dry and wet surfaces. Beyond that, due to the fact that they tend to "chew up" the pavement, many regions have either banned them all together or restricted their use to certain months of the year.
WINTER TIRES. Winter tires provide better traction in snowy and icy conditions. Their tread patterns and tread compounds are specifically designed for winter conditions. These tires perform better not only in snow, but also in slush and rain. And they're generally quieter than the snow tire. Look for the snowflake/mountain symbol which means they are certified to have met specific snow traction requirements.
MUD TIRES. If you're mudbogging, you need wide tires with large lugs. The lugs should have deep voids in between to expel the mud, allowing for better traction at each rotation. These tires, however, are generally loud on the highway, although you may find some exceptions. Mud tires are also good for rock climbing, sand and unpacked snow but do not perform well in icy conditions or in rain.
Two additional points to keep in mind ... don't try to cut corners by changing out only two tires. All four tires, whether they are snow tires or mud tires, should be the same. Two just won't do. And while the above list does not include any particular brand recommendations, the quickest, most reliable way to choose a good tire brand is to talk to other offroad entusiasts and find out what they're using in your area.
So there you have it. Tires are the most important truck accessory. Always make sure you have the right tires for the right job and you'll never have to embarrass yourself by calling a friend to come tow you out of an ugly mess.
Top7 Car Buying Tips
While we all like to think we won’t be conned when buying a used car, thousands of people are every single year. The majority of these people have bought their used car from one of the popular free ads papers and have known very little - if anything - about what to look for in a quality car. If you fall into this category, then simply follow the top seven car buying tips outlined below.
First of all, look out for signs that the car may have been involved in a serious accident. Points to watch out for include slight gaps between the body panels and car doors that drop or that fit badly on their hinges.
Always give the gearbox and clutch a through test. To do this, make sure that you have the engine running then press down on the clutch. If there is any change in the sound of the engine then this could indicate the bearings are worn.
The gearstick should move smoothly without any “crunching” sound.
Make sure the brakes are in top order by breaking as firmly as you can without the car skidding.
When you start up the car make sure the exhaust fumes are white - any other colour could indicate problems.
Check the panels to make sure there are no lose screws. If there are this could indicate that the odometer has been tampered with and the car has done more mileage than it states.
Finally, always go over the car’s paperwork thoroughly to make sure the history is correct. Generally the more history a car has then the better. Or invest in a vehicle data check, a service which can instantly check your proposed new car’s history, including whether it has ever been stolen or involved in an accident or whether it has any outstanding finance on it etc.
The service does not cost a lot and could save you a fortune - as well as any headaches – in the future.
First of all, look out for signs that the car may have been involved in a serious accident. Points to watch out for include slight gaps between the body panels and car doors that drop or that fit badly on their hinges.
Always give the gearbox and clutch a through test. To do this, make sure that you have the engine running then press down on the clutch. If there is any change in the sound of the engine then this could indicate the bearings are worn.
The gearstick should move smoothly without any “crunching” sound.
Make sure the brakes are in top order by breaking as firmly as you can without the car skidding.
When you start up the car make sure the exhaust fumes are white - any other colour could indicate problems.
Check the panels to make sure there are no lose screws. If there are this could indicate that the odometer has been tampered with and the car has done more mileage than it states.
Finally, always go over the car’s paperwork thoroughly to make sure the history is correct. Generally the more history a car has then the better. Or invest in a vehicle data check, a service which can instantly check your proposed new car’s history, including whether it has ever been stolen or involved in an accident or whether it has any outstanding finance on it etc.
The service does not cost a lot and could save you a fortune - as well as any headaches – in the future.
Top 3 Picks For Hybrid Cars
Hybrid cars are fast becoming more and more popular due to the rising fuel costs and the prices of hybrid cars are becoming more and more affordable. The performance of hybrid cars are also comparable to diesel/petrol cars so there’s no reason not to get it.
There are plenty of new hybrid car models introduced every year but here are my top 3 picks that offers the best performance and features for the price.
#3 Honda Civic Hybrid
The Honda Civic hybrid is not a new model and has been on the market for some time. The price retails around $20,000 and the fuel performance is 47 city mpg and 48 highway mpg.
Though it isn’t terribly fast, what I like about the honda civic hybrid is that it can carry up to 5 people. It is more functional and is suitable as a family car. It also pass the crash test rating with a good score of 5.
If you have a family and do not need to get anywhere fast, then going with a honda civic hybrid is a good buy.
#2 Honda Insight
The honda insight is a two seater hybrid car which have fuel performance of 57 city mpg and 56 highway mpg. The price is about the same as the honda civic hybrid. It is a very reliable car which I have owned for a couple of years. So far, it has not given me such problems.
There are a couple of disadvantages, firstly it is 2 seater which means it’s not a family type of car. Secondly, the horsepower isn’t that great with only 71 hp.
It is my second top pick because I like its reliability and when you compare price to performance, it is pretty good.
#1 Toyota Prius
The Toyota Prius hybrid car is my top pick because it offers the best performance for the price you get. It cost around $19,000 which is the cheapest out of the three. It has more horsepower at 110 hp and can do 60 city mpg and 51 highway mpg. It is a family sized car which can hold 5 people quite comfortably with some space left in the trunk.
It also get a 4.5 score for it’s crash test rating. For price and performance, you can’t beat the toyota prius.
There are plenty of new hybrid car models introduced every year but here are my top 3 picks that offers the best performance and features for the price.
#3 Honda Civic Hybrid
The Honda Civic hybrid is not a new model and has been on the market for some time. The price retails around $20,000 and the fuel performance is 47 city mpg and 48 highway mpg.
Though it isn’t terribly fast, what I like about the honda civic hybrid is that it can carry up to 5 people. It is more functional and is suitable as a family car. It also pass the crash test rating with a good score of 5.
If you have a family and do not need to get anywhere fast, then going with a honda civic hybrid is a good buy.
#2 Honda Insight
The honda insight is a two seater hybrid car which have fuel performance of 57 city mpg and 56 highway mpg. The price is about the same as the honda civic hybrid. It is a very reliable car which I have owned for a couple of years. So far, it has not given me such problems.
There are a couple of disadvantages, firstly it is 2 seater which means it’s not a family type of car. Secondly, the horsepower isn’t that great with only 71 hp.
It is my second top pick because I like its reliability and when you compare price to performance, it is pretty good.
#1 Toyota Prius
The Toyota Prius hybrid car is my top pick because it offers the best performance for the price you get. It cost around $19,000 which is the cheapest out of the three. It has more horsepower at 110 hp and can do 60 city mpg and 51 highway mpg. It is a family sized car which can hold 5 people quite comfortably with some space left in the trunk.
It also get a 4.5 score for it’s crash test rating. For price and performance, you can’t beat the toyota prius.
Top 5 Tips For Buying A Used Car
While you can get a great bargain by purchasing a second hand car you can also get nothing more than an old banger if you don’t take care. When it comes to purchasing a second hand car from a private dealer there are different rules than if you bought from an established dealer. One of the biggest differences are your consumer rights - or lack of them.
While there are many honest and trustworthy people out there selling used cars there are also some “dodgy” characters and of course sometimes it is hard to tell the difference. One of the best tips when buying a car from a private dealer is to pay a small fee to have a car data check carried out. This will check such things as the previous owner of the car, mileage data associated with the vehicle and if there are any problems relating to finance or insurance.
When going to look at a second hand car sold by a private buyer you should consider taking someone with you who knows about cars. If you don’t have someone who knows enough about cars and what to look for when buying second hand then it could save you money and heartache in the long run if you were to pay a mechanic to go and look over the car with you before committing yourself to purchasing it.
When buying privately make sure that you learn as much as you can about the make and model of the particular car that you are going to look over. Do an online search through used cars for the model and make sure that you have a very good idea of what that particular make and model is selling for.
When buying privately always make sure that you go and look over the car in daylight. If the seller is wary of letting you do this then it is very likely that they have something to hide. The seller should be able to answer all your questions willingly about the history of the car. If they tell you they don’t know or are unsure because they are selling the car for a friend or relative then you should stay clear and look elsewhere. They should also be able to provide you with all the necessary documentation relating to the cars history.
If you are buying from a dealer then be aware of all the added extras which they could try to entice you with and ask yourself if you really need them. Also be careful when it comes to taking any payment protection insurance associated with any car finance through them as this can boost the price up drastically of the car.
While there are many honest and trustworthy people out there selling used cars there are also some “dodgy” characters and of course sometimes it is hard to tell the difference. One of the best tips when buying a car from a private dealer is to pay a small fee to have a car data check carried out. This will check such things as the previous owner of the car, mileage data associated with the vehicle and if there are any problems relating to finance or insurance.
When going to look at a second hand car sold by a private buyer you should consider taking someone with you who knows about cars. If you don’t have someone who knows enough about cars and what to look for when buying second hand then it could save you money and heartache in the long run if you were to pay a mechanic to go and look over the car with you before committing yourself to purchasing it.
When buying privately make sure that you learn as much as you can about the make and model of the particular car that you are going to look over. Do an online search through used cars for the model and make sure that you have a very good idea of what that particular make and model is selling for.
When buying privately always make sure that you go and look over the car in daylight. If the seller is wary of letting you do this then it is very likely that they have something to hide. The seller should be able to answer all your questions willingly about the history of the car. If they tell you they don’t know or are unsure because they are selling the car for a friend or relative then you should stay clear and look elsewhere. They should also be able to provide you with all the necessary documentation relating to the cars history.
If you are buying from a dealer then be aware of all the added extras which they could try to entice you with and ask yourself if you really need them. Also be careful when it comes to taking any payment protection insurance associated with any car finance through them as this can boost the price up drastically of the car.
Top 10 Must Have Harley Davidson Accessories
There are several Harley-Davidson accessories you can buy for your motorcycle. However, you don’t need all of them to get your desired image. Here are 10 Harley-Davidson accessories you can consider buying. (Again, you don’t have to buy all these 10, you only have to select some.)
10. Fender trim
If you want to highlight your front fender would to become more attractive upon first look, you simply add a sweeping dash of this chrome-plated trim and you will surely see the difference.
9. Instrument trim
This is a chrome-plated trim that is installed on your tachometer and speedometer gauges (selected models). This will instantly give your Harley a stunning look.
8. Exhaust system
To a super bike, an exhaust system is a great addition to its overall sporty image. To a Harley-Davidson motorcycle, an exhaust system would highlight the very part that gives off the unique sound that made every Harley unique and popular. Sporty look is also an assurance on every exhaust system installed.
7. Saddlebag
Whether it is a color-matched bag or a leather saddlebag, once installed, it will sure give added toughness and style on your Harley-Davidson motorcycle. There are different shapes, sizes, and material made for this type of accessory. All you have to do is to choose which one is for your motorcycle.
6. Sissy Bar Bag
Installed at the back seat of the motorcycle, the sissy bar bag will provide an extra storage that is easy to access.
5. Backrest pad
Whether you travel alone or with a companion, having a backrest pad will certainly help your posture. The backrest pad is not only functional, it is also a good cosmetic that adds to the image of the Harley-Davidson.
4. Windshield and windshield trim
Made from a hard-coated polycarbonate, this accessory that can resist scratching is a great addition to your Harley-Davidson. The trim on the other hand accentuates the windshield for added style.
3. Motorcycle Cover
Especially made for a true-blooded Harley-Davidson motorcycle, this will provide protection every time you park it at your garage or somewhere else.
2. Seats
Whether you go solo or with someone at your back, a good seat will let you enjoy the whole ride. Seats from different manufacturers are made from fine materials with designs that go with the brand.
1. Rider’s essential kit
If you want to buy a whole set of Harley-Davidson that would fit on the particular model you own, a kit would be a great choice. It includes accessories such as belt buckle, windshield, side plates, sissy bar, backrest pad, storage cover, seat, and more depending on the model you have.
10. Fender trim
If you want to highlight your front fender would to become more attractive upon first look, you simply add a sweeping dash of this chrome-plated trim and you will surely see the difference.
9. Instrument trim
This is a chrome-plated trim that is installed on your tachometer and speedometer gauges (selected models). This will instantly give your Harley a stunning look.
8. Exhaust system
To a super bike, an exhaust system is a great addition to its overall sporty image. To a Harley-Davidson motorcycle, an exhaust system would highlight the very part that gives off the unique sound that made every Harley unique and popular. Sporty look is also an assurance on every exhaust system installed.
7. Saddlebag
Whether it is a color-matched bag or a leather saddlebag, once installed, it will sure give added toughness and style on your Harley-Davidson motorcycle. There are different shapes, sizes, and material made for this type of accessory. All you have to do is to choose which one is for your motorcycle.
6. Sissy Bar Bag
Installed at the back seat of the motorcycle, the sissy bar bag will provide an extra storage that is easy to access.
5. Backrest pad
Whether you travel alone or with a companion, having a backrest pad will certainly help your posture. The backrest pad is not only functional, it is also a good cosmetic that adds to the image of the Harley-Davidson.
4. Windshield and windshield trim
Made from a hard-coated polycarbonate, this accessory that can resist scratching is a great addition to your Harley-Davidson. The trim on the other hand accentuates the windshield for added style.
3. Motorcycle Cover
Especially made for a true-blooded Harley-Davidson motorcycle, this will provide protection every time you park it at your garage or somewhere else.
2. Seats
Whether you go solo or with someone at your back, a good seat will let you enjoy the whole ride. Seats from different manufacturers are made from fine materials with designs that go with the brand.
1. Rider’s essential kit
If you want to buy a whole set of Harley-Davidson that would fit on the particular model you own, a kit would be a great choice. It includes accessories such as belt buckle, windshield, side plates, sissy bar, backrest pad, storage cover, seat, and more depending on the model you have.
Top 10 Reasons Why People Fail Their Driving Test
Every year more than 100,000 people fail their driving test in the UK. The pass rate is only 43%, with it even lower for first time candidates. Men are more likely than woman to pass first time, yet interestingly they are statistically more dangerous drivers. Nonetheless, the overall pass rate is still very low, particularly when almost everyone who takes their test feels that they can drive. Therefore we’ve compiled the top 10 reasons why people fail their driving test:
1. Acting improperly at road junctions. Get in the right lane when approaching a junction or roundabout. Always indicate.
2. Manoeuvre – reversing around a corner incorrectly. Being confident with your manoeuvres is vitally important. Practice really does make perfect so continue practicing them intensively.
3. Incorrect Steering. Remember to feed the steering through your hands. Do this whenever you drive to ensure that it comes naturally.
4. Manoeuvre – problems with parking. Again practice makes perfect. If in doubt it’s best to be further away from the kerb.
5. Not using gears properly. As a general rule, move into 2nd gear as soon as you move from stationary, 3rd gear at 20mph, 4th gear at 30mph, and 5th gear at 40mph.
6. Under-using your mirrors. This is a common mistake. When it comes to your driving test you really can’t look in your mirrors enough.
7. Driving too slowly. Driving too slowly is seen as a sign of being lacking confidence. Drive at or just under the speed limit.
8. Acting incorrectly when turning right. Indicate early and don’t force your way out by pulling out half way.
9. Hesitating unnecessarily at junctions. Again, unnecessary hesitation is seen as a sign that you lack confidence in your driving ability. However, don’t rush – impatience is worse than hesitation.
10. Moving out correctly from stationary positions. Many people successfully complete a manoeuvre or emergency stop, then relax and forget to pull away correctly. Always indicate, check that the road is clear using your mirrors and by looking back, then pull out.
1. Acting improperly at road junctions. Get in the right lane when approaching a junction or roundabout. Always indicate.
2. Manoeuvre – reversing around a corner incorrectly. Being confident with your manoeuvres is vitally important. Practice really does make perfect so continue practicing them intensively.
3. Incorrect Steering. Remember to feed the steering through your hands. Do this whenever you drive to ensure that it comes naturally.
4. Manoeuvre – problems with parking. Again practice makes perfect. If in doubt it’s best to be further away from the kerb.
5. Not using gears properly. As a general rule, move into 2nd gear as soon as you move from stationary, 3rd gear at 20mph, 4th gear at 30mph, and 5th gear at 40mph.
6. Under-using your mirrors. This is a common mistake. When it comes to your driving test you really can’t look in your mirrors enough.
7. Driving too slowly. Driving too slowly is seen as a sign of being lacking confidence. Drive at or just under the speed limit.
8. Acting incorrectly when turning right. Indicate early and don’t force your way out by pulling out half way.
9. Hesitating unnecessarily at junctions. Again, unnecessary hesitation is seen as a sign that you lack confidence in your driving ability. However, don’t rush – impatience is worse than hesitation.
10. Moving out correctly from stationary positions. Many people successfully complete a manoeuvre or emergency stop, then relax and forget to pull away correctly. Always indicate, check that the road is clear using your mirrors and by looking back, then pull out.
Friday, January 29, 2010
Top Ten Coolest Features In Affordable Cars
We don’t have flying cars yet, but super expensive luxury and sports cars can already park themselves, adjust the window tint, or automatically slam the brakes to prevent an accident. While those options haven’t filtered down to the majority of vehicles yet, here are some amazing car features in ordinary vehicles that keep you safe, make driving easier, or are just plain cool.
Steering Wheel Mounted Audio Controls: This “safety feature” is a must have for music lovers. Most systems will let you adjust the volume, CD track, change CDs, or switch between different CD and radio without taking your hands off the wheel, making enjoying your music nearly effortless.
Intelligent key: This is a type of remote keyless entry that allows you to enter your vehicle and start it without taking it out of your pocket. Some of these systems also have a sleek push button start.
Touch Screen GPS: Not only will these systems guide you through unfamiliar terrain, the touch screen makes them incredibly easy to operate.
Memory Seats: This feature allows you to save two different settings for the driver’s seat, so if someone else drives your vehicle, just press a button and it returns to your saved setting. Some models even link the setting to each key, and will adjust automatically.
Heated and Cooled Seats: Leather has always had a reputation for being cold in the winter and hot in the summer, but with heated and cooled seats, drivers’ bottoms will be comfortable in any season.
Telescopic Steering Column: In addition to tilting up or down, the steering wheel can be pulled closer to you, or pushed further away, allowing increased comfort, especially on long trips. In some luxury models, this is a power option and can be set as part of your memory seat system.
Advanced Airbag Systems: Once upon a time, cars didn’t even have seat belts. Now intuitive safety systems use body panel sensors to determine where an impact comes from, how severe the accident is, and uses this information to deploy the proper airbags at a rate proportionate to the force of the accident, occupant weight, and seat position.
Stability Control Systems: Taking traction control one step further, these systems monitor individual wheel speed and direction, as well as driver input, to determine if control is ever lost, and can increase or decrease power to individual wheels to help the driver maintain control. These systems are so effective that they will eliminate any loss of traction, even full throttle acceleration in rear wheel drive, 300+ horsepower vehicles on gravel or mud.
Adaptive Cruise Control: This technology allows the car to slow down or speed up in relation to surrounding traffic.
Bluetooth: Talk hands free on your cell phone using your vehicle’s speakers and a hidden microphone. Unlike other systems, it uses your cell phone minutes instead of requiring an additional service.
Most of these options aren’t standard in economy cars yet, but they may be soon. Side air bags are standard equipment in many cars, and all these features can be found in vehicles less than $35,000, and most in vehicles around $20,000 to $25,000.
Steering Wheel Mounted Audio Controls: This “safety feature” is a must have for music lovers. Most systems will let you adjust the volume, CD track, change CDs, or switch between different CD and radio without taking your hands off the wheel, making enjoying your music nearly effortless.
Intelligent key: This is a type of remote keyless entry that allows you to enter your vehicle and start it without taking it out of your pocket. Some of these systems also have a sleek push button start.
Touch Screen GPS: Not only will these systems guide you through unfamiliar terrain, the touch screen makes them incredibly easy to operate.
Memory Seats: This feature allows you to save two different settings for the driver’s seat, so if someone else drives your vehicle, just press a button and it returns to your saved setting. Some models even link the setting to each key, and will adjust automatically.
Heated and Cooled Seats: Leather has always had a reputation for being cold in the winter and hot in the summer, but with heated and cooled seats, drivers’ bottoms will be comfortable in any season.
Telescopic Steering Column: In addition to tilting up or down, the steering wheel can be pulled closer to you, or pushed further away, allowing increased comfort, especially on long trips. In some luxury models, this is a power option and can be set as part of your memory seat system.
Advanced Airbag Systems: Once upon a time, cars didn’t even have seat belts. Now intuitive safety systems use body panel sensors to determine where an impact comes from, how severe the accident is, and uses this information to deploy the proper airbags at a rate proportionate to the force of the accident, occupant weight, and seat position.
Stability Control Systems: Taking traction control one step further, these systems monitor individual wheel speed and direction, as well as driver input, to determine if control is ever lost, and can increase or decrease power to individual wheels to help the driver maintain control. These systems are so effective that they will eliminate any loss of traction, even full throttle acceleration in rear wheel drive, 300+ horsepower vehicles on gravel or mud.
Adaptive Cruise Control: This technology allows the car to slow down or speed up in relation to surrounding traffic.
Bluetooth: Talk hands free on your cell phone using your vehicle’s speakers and a hidden microphone. Unlike other systems, it uses your cell phone minutes instead of requiring an additional service.
Most of these options aren’t standard in economy cars yet, but they may be soon. Side air bags are standard equipment in many cars, and all these features can be found in vehicles less than $35,000, and most in vehicles around $20,000 to $25,000.
Top Tips For Buying A Used Car
It is possible to get a great bargain when purchasing a used car, but on the other hand if you know very little about cars then you could end up with a “rust bucket” that won’t move from the side of the kerb. So how do know how to go about purchasing a good used car as opposed to a “rust bucket”? Here are some top tips to help you.
The first tip is to make sure that you test drive the car for at least 30 minutes. This should give you adequate time to get the feel of the car and test out all you need to.
Check to make sure the lights work, test the handling and steering, make sure the engine idles smoothly and that there is no smoke coming from the exhaust. Make sure that the car isn’t pulling towards one side and that the brakes work effectively. Does the CD player or radio work? Is there a blind spot?
These are all things that you need to look at.
On the exterior of the car, always make sure that you perform the standard quick checks on the car. These should include checking for rust on the sills, wheel arches, suspension mountings and bottoms of the doors.
Check the door panels for body filler with a standard magnet and check the seals on the doors, windows and sunroofs.
Check to make sure that the mileage on the odometer is in line with the condition of the car. A good indication of this having been tampered with is excessive stone chips on the bonnet and grill and a worn gear knob or steering wheel. Also look for loose screws on the instrument panel as this could indicate it has been removed.
Finally, you could invest in a vehicle data check. This is a low cost way of checking a car’s history – and will definitely show up any skeletons in the closet if there are any.
The first tip is to make sure that you test drive the car for at least 30 minutes. This should give you adequate time to get the feel of the car and test out all you need to.
Check to make sure the lights work, test the handling and steering, make sure the engine idles smoothly and that there is no smoke coming from the exhaust. Make sure that the car isn’t pulling towards one side and that the brakes work effectively. Does the CD player or radio work? Is there a blind spot?
These are all things that you need to look at.
On the exterior of the car, always make sure that you perform the standard quick checks on the car. These should include checking for rust on the sills, wheel arches, suspension mountings and bottoms of the doors.
Check the door panels for body filler with a standard magnet and check the seals on the doors, windows and sunroofs.
Check to make sure that the mileage on the odometer is in line with the condition of the car. A good indication of this having been tampered with is excessive stone chips on the bonnet and grill and a worn gear knob or steering wheel. Also look for loose screws on the instrument panel as this could indicate it has been removed.
Finally, you could invest in a vehicle data check. This is a low cost way of checking a car’s history – and will definitely show up any skeletons in the closet if there are any.
Top Tips When Buying A Used Car Privately
Every year in the UK over 7 million used cars are purchased, with many of these cars being purchased privately direct from the owner. Whilst this can often be the route to achieving the best bargains it can also become very expensive in cases when it emerges that the car has a number of problems or a previously unknown history. In order to reduce the likelihood of being caught out we’ve put together the top tips when buying a car privately:
• The first step is to do some research about your desired car. Check classified ads and trade guides to get a good idea of prices. Parkers.co.uk is an excellent site and contains a free used car valuation tool and thousands of reviews and ratings.
• Once you’ve decided on which car you’d like to buy and have found a possible seller always go and take a look at the car in daylight.
• Take a friend along with you. If problems occur in the future it’s very useful to have a witness available to validate what was said.
• Check that the car has not been clocked. The average mileage is 12,000 miles a year. Have a look at the tyres to see whether this looks right or if the car has new tyres ask the owner for details of its servicing history.
• Always go for a test drive. However, make sure that you are insured to do so and if the seller says that he has cover ask to see his policy.
• Carefully check the log book, officially known as the V5 or registration document. In particular look for the chassis number, known as the vehicle identification number (VIN). This will usually be located on a small plate on the driver’s door or in the engine bay. The absence of a VIN number strongly suggests that the car has assumed the identity of someone else, probably because it has been stolen at some point in its past.
• You could also consider purchasing an AA Car Data Check. Importantly this will include a full description of the car, including engine size and date of first registration, so you can be sure of what you are buying. It will also tell you whether the car has a finance agreement recorded against it, if the car has been written off, and whether the car has had any number plate or colour changes.
• The chances are that at some point you’ll enter into negotiations over the price. Have a highest price and target price in mind before entering into negotiations. If your two offers are some way apart you try not to say anything. Car salesmen use this tactic all the time as people find silence uncomfortable. Try this and the seller will often suggest meeting half way, at which point you can propose meeting half way between your offer and the new offer, getting yourself a better deal.
• Finally, if interested in the car consider having it independently checked by a reputable garage. Reputable sellers will understand this so be wary if the owner of the car is against having it checked.
• The first step is to do some research about your desired car. Check classified ads and trade guides to get a good idea of prices. Parkers.co.uk is an excellent site and contains a free used car valuation tool and thousands of reviews and ratings.
• Once you’ve decided on which car you’d like to buy and have found a possible seller always go and take a look at the car in daylight.
• Take a friend along with you. If problems occur in the future it’s very useful to have a witness available to validate what was said.
• Check that the car has not been clocked. The average mileage is 12,000 miles a year. Have a look at the tyres to see whether this looks right or if the car has new tyres ask the owner for details of its servicing history.
• Always go for a test drive. However, make sure that you are insured to do so and if the seller says that he has cover ask to see his policy.
• Carefully check the log book, officially known as the V5 or registration document. In particular look for the chassis number, known as the vehicle identification number (VIN). This will usually be located on a small plate on the driver’s door or in the engine bay. The absence of a VIN number strongly suggests that the car has assumed the identity of someone else, probably because it has been stolen at some point in its past.
• You could also consider purchasing an AA Car Data Check. Importantly this will include a full description of the car, including engine size and date of first registration, so you can be sure of what you are buying. It will also tell you whether the car has a finance agreement recorded against it, if the car has been written off, and whether the car has had any number plate or colour changes.
• The chances are that at some point you’ll enter into negotiations over the price. Have a highest price and target price in mind before entering into negotiations. If your two offers are some way apart you try not to say anything. Car salesmen use this tactic all the time as people find silence uncomfortable. Try this and the seller will often suggest meeting half way, at which point you can propose meeting half way between your offer and the new offer, getting yourself a better deal.
• Finally, if interested in the car consider having it independently checked by a reputable garage. Reputable sellers will understand this so be wary if the owner of the car is against having it checked.
Toyota Is Hot In Us And Japan
Major car manufacturer Toyota has produced car models that have consistently ranked high in both the US and Japan market, specifically with regard to the Toyota Camry and the remodeled Toyota Corolla.
While the Toyota Camry has been the best-selling car in the United States for the past four years (2002-2005), back in Japan where Toyota is based, it is the Toyota Corolla that has been the best selling vehicle. Reports say there were 70,675 units of the Toyota Corolla sold from January to June this year. That total is actually a decrease of 11.7% from their total sales during the same period a year ago.
According to figures from the Japan Automobile Dealers Association, the Toyota Corolla has actually been the best-selling car in Japan for the last four six-month periods. Toyota actually released a fully remodeled Corolla in August 2000 and its impressive sales performance since that time attests to its immense popularity.
The performance of the Toyota Camry in the United States has been simply amazing. Not only has it been the best-selling car for four straight years now, it has also been the country's best seller in eight of the last nine years. It has consistently topped its mid-size competitors such as the Honda Accord and the Chevrolet Impala in that period.
Reports say that plans are currently afoot to launch a hybrid Camry later this year as well a fully redesigned version of the Camry in 2007. The general expectation is that Toyota Camry set to be unveiled Monday at the North American International Auto Show in Detroit, the sedan likely will set the bar high for its competitors.
Understandably, Toyota has been mum about the new Camry, hardly releasing any details. However, according to Jim Press, president and chief operating officer of Toyota Motor Sales USA Inc., it will offer better style, technology and drivability. And it will build on the reputation the nameplate has established in previous incarnations.
Press said he expects the company this year to sell about the nearly the same as the 432,000 Camrys it sold in 2005, but may lose some sales as it switches from offering the old model. He said Toyota strives to keep Camry's style timeless while keeping in mind the goal of a well-balanced car that satisfies drivers' needs.
While the Toyota Camry has been the best-selling car in the United States for the past four years (2002-2005), back in Japan where Toyota is based, it is the Toyota Corolla that has been the best selling vehicle. Reports say there were 70,675 units of the Toyota Corolla sold from January to June this year. That total is actually a decrease of 11.7% from their total sales during the same period a year ago.
According to figures from the Japan Automobile Dealers Association, the Toyota Corolla has actually been the best-selling car in Japan for the last four six-month periods. Toyota actually released a fully remodeled Corolla in August 2000 and its impressive sales performance since that time attests to its immense popularity.
The performance of the Toyota Camry in the United States has been simply amazing. Not only has it been the best-selling car for four straight years now, it has also been the country's best seller in eight of the last nine years. It has consistently topped its mid-size competitors such as the Honda Accord and the Chevrolet Impala in that period.
Reports say that plans are currently afoot to launch a hybrid Camry later this year as well a fully redesigned version of the Camry in 2007. The general expectation is that Toyota Camry set to be unveiled Monday at the North American International Auto Show in Detroit, the sedan likely will set the bar high for its competitors.
Understandably, Toyota has been mum about the new Camry, hardly releasing any details. However, according to Jim Press, president and chief operating officer of Toyota Motor Sales USA Inc., it will offer better style, technology and drivability. And it will build on the reputation the nameplate has established in previous incarnations.
Press said he expects the company this year to sell about the nearly the same as the 432,000 Camrys it sold in 2005, but may lose some sales as it switches from offering the old model. He said Toyota strives to keep Camry's style timeless while keeping in mind the goal of a well-balanced car that satisfies drivers' needs.
Toyota Modified Valve Body
As many Toyota and Jeep owners know, the AW4 / Toyota 340, A340, and A341E series of transmissions are generally very well made and demonstrate excellent durability in unmodified applications. The framework is present for an extremely strong transmission that is to be used in a high performance or extreme duty application.
The problem is that the original calibration is engineered for driver comfort rather than ultimate component strength. The soft, sliding shifts that are part of the original design are not appropriate for increased horsepower applications, towing, off road use, racing, etc.
These calibration inadequacies quickly manifest themselves as extremely poor shift quality, and more often than not, severe damage to the gearbox is soon to follow. One of the most common symptoms of this is the engine stuttering or hitting the rev limiter during a full throttle upshift.
Without going into too much technical detail, the factory shortcomings can be addressed through modification and recalibration of the control valve assembly, a.k.a. the valve body.
The valve body is a component that is comprised of valves, solenoids, an orifice separator plate and an intricate series of passages- it is the most complex component in the most complex part of your vehicle- the automatic transmission.
The function of the valve body is to act as the "brain" of the automatic transmission- it directs hydraulic pressure to the appropriate clutches and bands at the right time to initiate upshifts, down shifts, selection of reverse, converter clutch application, etc. As well as controlling shift timing and shift quality, it is also responsible for directing hydraulic pressure to the cooler and the lubrication circuit.
As you can imagine, the transmission's operational characteristics can be drastically altered and also customized to the given application through modifications to this component.
Because there are no commercially available shift kits for these transmissions, we began working on valve body modifications that were appropriate for Supras, Jeeps with the AW4 transmission, Toyota Tundra, Tacoma and 4Runner, and also Lexus SUV's and rear drive passenger cars- especially those that needed to handle the additional power that accompanies the installation of a supercharger, turbo or nitrous oxide injection.
At the risk of oversimplification, there are a few things that are done in concert to create much more favorable operation of the gearbox.
The first thing that needs to be done is to increase the hydraulic operating pressure of the transmission- this pressure is known as "line pressure". All hydraulic functions of the transmission are based on this pressure- what is especially of concern for these purposes is the clamping force which is applied to the clutches and bands to get them to hold against engine torque.
In simple terms, increased engine output is complemented by increased line pressure and increased "clamp" on the clutches- this can be likened to a performance clutch with a heavier pressure plate spring in a manual transmission equipped vehicle.
The idea is to raise this pressure only slightly at light throttle but increase it by 30-40% at full throttle- where it is really needed. The effects of this are shifts that are not overly uncomfortable at lower throttle openings, while at heavier throttle, firm shifts with much shorter clutch application time and increased clamping force can be achieved.
An additional benefit of this is increased flow through the transmission's cooler and lube system.
Secondly, hydraulic pressure is normally routed through an orifice in a metal "separator plate" that resides between the two halves of the valve body before it gets to its intended destination. By altering these orifices, we can increase the volume of hydraulic oil that is used to apply the various clutches and bands.
The final part of modification is the alteration of the accumulator circuits. These are hydraulic circuits that are parallel to the components that are used for shifting. Their function is to absorb or "accumulate" some of the hydraulic pressure that is intended to apply a clutch pack or band. By limiting the action of what is essentially a "shock absorber" for each shift, we are able to further reduce clutch lock up time and shift lag at wide open throttle.
The end result is that shift time is reduced by 30 to 80%, depending on the amount of acceptable shift feel and the intended application. The clamping force that is required to apply the clutches and bands is increased by 30 to 40% at full throttle. Flow through the cooler and lube circuit is increased and the converter clutch application time is also reduced.
Transmission and valve body upgrades are not only for American made vehicles anymore. Increased performance and more efficient shifting is now available for vehicles of almost every manufacturer thanks to the few companies that are willing to do the research and development work required for this rapidly growing segment of the automotive aftermarket.
The problem is that the original calibration is engineered for driver comfort rather than ultimate component strength. The soft, sliding shifts that are part of the original design are not appropriate for increased horsepower applications, towing, off road use, racing, etc.
These calibration inadequacies quickly manifest themselves as extremely poor shift quality, and more often than not, severe damage to the gearbox is soon to follow. One of the most common symptoms of this is the engine stuttering or hitting the rev limiter during a full throttle upshift.
Without going into too much technical detail, the factory shortcomings can be addressed through modification and recalibration of the control valve assembly, a.k.a. the valve body.
The valve body is a component that is comprised of valves, solenoids, an orifice separator plate and an intricate series of passages- it is the most complex component in the most complex part of your vehicle- the automatic transmission.
The function of the valve body is to act as the "brain" of the automatic transmission- it directs hydraulic pressure to the appropriate clutches and bands at the right time to initiate upshifts, down shifts, selection of reverse, converter clutch application, etc. As well as controlling shift timing and shift quality, it is also responsible for directing hydraulic pressure to the cooler and the lubrication circuit.
As you can imagine, the transmission's operational characteristics can be drastically altered and also customized to the given application through modifications to this component.
Because there are no commercially available shift kits for these transmissions, we began working on valve body modifications that were appropriate for Supras, Jeeps with the AW4 transmission, Toyota Tundra, Tacoma and 4Runner, and also Lexus SUV's and rear drive passenger cars- especially those that needed to handle the additional power that accompanies the installation of a supercharger, turbo or nitrous oxide injection.
At the risk of oversimplification, there are a few things that are done in concert to create much more favorable operation of the gearbox.
The first thing that needs to be done is to increase the hydraulic operating pressure of the transmission- this pressure is known as "line pressure". All hydraulic functions of the transmission are based on this pressure- what is especially of concern for these purposes is the clamping force which is applied to the clutches and bands to get them to hold against engine torque.
In simple terms, increased engine output is complemented by increased line pressure and increased "clamp" on the clutches- this can be likened to a performance clutch with a heavier pressure plate spring in a manual transmission equipped vehicle.
The idea is to raise this pressure only slightly at light throttle but increase it by 30-40% at full throttle- where it is really needed. The effects of this are shifts that are not overly uncomfortable at lower throttle openings, while at heavier throttle, firm shifts with much shorter clutch application time and increased clamping force can be achieved.
An additional benefit of this is increased flow through the transmission's cooler and lube system.
Secondly, hydraulic pressure is normally routed through an orifice in a metal "separator plate" that resides between the two halves of the valve body before it gets to its intended destination. By altering these orifices, we can increase the volume of hydraulic oil that is used to apply the various clutches and bands.
The final part of modification is the alteration of the accumulator circuits. These are hydraulic circuits that are parallel to the components that are used for shifting. Their function is to absorb or "accumulate" some of the hydraulic pressure that is intended to apply a clutch pack or band. By limiting the action of what is essentially a "shock absorber" for each shift, we are able to further reduce clutch lock up time and shift lag at wide open throttle.
The end result is that shift time is reduced by 30 to 80%, depending on the amount of acceptable shift feel and the intended application. The clamping force that is required to apply the clutches and bands is increased by 30 to 40% at full throttle. Flow through the cooler and lube circuit is increased and the converter clutch application time is also reduced.
Transmission and valve body upgrades are not only for American made vehicles anymore. Increased performance and more efficient shifting is now available for vehicles of almost every manufacturer thanks to the few companies that are willing to do the research and development work required for this rapidly growing segment of the automotive aftermarket.
Toyota Trucks
You may have noticed that the truck market has become very hot lately. It seems that you don’t have to have construction type jobs to own a truck these days. In the past foreign trucks struggled with quality issues. Now a days all manufacturers have stepped up in quality and have produced their own profitable truck market segment.
The Toyota Tundra was previously known as a light-weight duty truck, but since 2007, the Tundra has upped the heavy-duty competitive bar. Toyota has also started an aggressive branding of their tundra line to compete more aggressively with American car manufacturers. By keeping the brand in front of the customer you slowly begin to program potential buyers into the fact that there is a better truck out there, and you don’t always have to buy American to get the best product. There newest commercials show the trucks being used by hard working laboring men in various jobs. This promotes some pride in the job and shows that it is ok to have a foreign truck doing an American job. This not only helps the bottom line for sales but also spurs on the transition from the industrial age to that of a global economy.
If you’re looking to buy a truck that is affordable and reliable, then Toyota might be the dealer to call on. The Toyota Tundra is well known for it’s heavy duty utility features and is appealing to many middle class families. Many people who work in the construction field look to buying a Toyota truck because of its quality. Heavy duty features are also promoted in television commercials which help you realize the quality design built into the truck. In the past foreign trucks did not always mean quality, just a lower price. They never really had a good reputation.
The Tundra also has 4 wheel drive, meaning that all wheels roll, verses the 2 wheel drive, where the two back tires push the front. You can buy a Tundra with different engines, so depending on how much torque you are looking for and how much heavy duty work you do, you will need to decide if you want a 4.7L V 8; 5.7L V8; or a 4.0L V 6. The lower the liters you get, the less oil you will have to worry about and the less gas it’ll burn. So if you do construction work and are looking for something that can survive toting around heavy tools, then you may only need a 4 liter. But if you are really into the construction field and are moving around large chunks of wood, heavy machinery and such, you may want to look at the 4.7L engine.
Besides the Toyota Tundra, there is the option of buying a Toyota Tacoma. This is truly a light-weight duty truck. There have been some changes to the Tacoma over the past few years and is now more spacious and comfortable to be in. The Toyota Tacoma pickup truck has 4 doors and a long crew cab. There are two choices of engines, the 4,0L V 6 or the 2.7L Inline 4. It can also tow up to 6,500 pounds.
Toyota manufacturers are known for producing quality vehicles and many people in the US love and purchase these Japanese owned vehicles. They are reliable and huge contender for Ford, Dodge and General Motors. If you’ve been thinking about getting a Toyota Tundra or Tacoma, you might be making a really good decision.
The Toyota Tundra was previously known as a light-weight duty truck, but since 2007, the Tundra has upped the heavy-duty competitive bar. Toyota has also started an aggressive branding of their tundra line to compete more aggressively with American car manufacturers. By keeping the brand in front of the customer you slowly begin to program potential buyers into the fact that there is a better truck out there, and you don’t always have to buy American to get the best product. There newest commercials show the trucks being used by hard working laboring men in various jobs. This promotes some pride in the job and shows that it is ok to have a foreign truck doing an American job. This not only helps the bottom line for sales but also spurs on the transition from the industrial age to that of a global economy.
If you’re looking to buy a truck that is affordable and reliable, then Toyota might be the dealer to call on. The Toyota Tundra is well known for it’s heavy duty utility features and is appealing to many middle class families. Many people who work in the construction field look to buying a Toyota truck because of its quality. Heavy duty features are also promoted in television commercials which help you realize the quality design built into the truck. In the past foreign trucks did not always mean quality, just a lower price. They never really had a good reputation.
The Tundra also has 4 wheel drive, meaning that all wheels roll, verses the 2 wheel drive, where the two back tires push the front. You can buy a Tundra with different engines, so depending on how much torque you are looking for and how much heavy duty work you do, you will need to decide if you want a 4.7L V 8; 5.7L V8; or a 4.0L V 6. The lower the liters you get, the less oil you will have to worry about and the less gas it’ll burn. So if you do construction work and are looking for something that can survive toting around heavy tools, then you may only need a 4 liter. But if you are really into the construction field and are moving around large chunks of wood, heavy machinery and such, you may want to look at the 4.7L engine.
Besides the Toyota Tundra, there is the option of buying a Toyota Tacoma. This is truly a light-weight duty truck. There have been some changes to the Tacoma over the past few years and is now more spacious and comfortable to be in. The Toyota Tacoma pickup truck has 4 doors and a long crew cab. There are two choices of engines, the 4,0L V 6 or the 2.7L Inline 4. It can also tow up to 6,500 pounds.
Toyota manufacturers are known for producing quality vehicles and many people in the US love and purchase these Japanese owned vehicles. They are reliable and huge contender for Ford, Dodge and General Motors. If you’ve been thinking about getting a Toyota Tundra or Tacoma, you might be making a really good decision.
Traffic Psychology
One of the newer and most important fields of psychology today is that of traffic psychology. It may sound insignificant at first, but when one considers the amount of traffic accidents and deaths caused by traffic incidents, one starts to consider why these incidents keep on occurring and, more importantly, what the cause of these incidents may be. Traffic psychology is concerned with this very notion and aims to shed some light on some of our more interesting behavior tendencies.
Traffic psychology is very closely related to something known as transportation psychology, but the differences between the two sets are clear. Traffic psychology is primarily concerned with the study of behavior in people driving on the roads and how that behavior influences their actions on the road. This is where “road rage” and all sorts of other terminological distinctions come from. Transportation psychology is, on the other hand, concerned with how people move around in general and is significantly less exciting.
Behavior and Accidents
One of the most important things that traffic psychology touches on is the relationship of behavior and accidents. The study of this behavior usually depends on various ages of drivers and their mode of transportation. Traffic psychology in this area studies such things as the attentiveness of drivers while driving, the cognitive properties of drivers, the driver’s fatigue or workload level and its impact on driving, and the social interactions of driving.
Many findings report some fairly obvious observations. The less social interaction a driver has with the other drivers on his or her road, the more likely an accident is to occur. Driver-to-driver communication is important to avoid collisions. Driver fatigue is also clearly an issue, as those drivers that are not properly rested before getting behind the wheel represent a certain risk to other drivers on the road.
Also important to look at in this area is the idea of driver personality. Drivers who are “risk-takers” are more prone to pass on a double-solid line or perform risky movements in traffic that can put other drivers at risk. This personality often influences many accidents because of the reckless abandon that the individual driver shows towards traffic and the social interactions of the other drivers.
Practical Applications
Traffic psychology has been used to perform a number of practical applications designed to make road travel safer for all drivers on the road. Traffic psychologists collaborate with engineers and city planners to plan roads to make them more effective and “driver-friendly.” Traffic psychology is also used in terms of the economics of the road, with items such as toll booths and gas prices monitored to determine their impact on drivers in general.
Traffic psychologists also introduce educational methods by which to influence good driving behavior. Habits formed through bad traffic psychology are monitored and exposed with advertising campaigns, classroom instruction, and other public property tools. The “road rage” campaigns were one example of traffic psychology at work. Other campaigns involved with traffic psychology include drunken driving campaigns and other campaigns concerned with public safety on the roads.
Traffic psychology is very closely related to something known as transportation psychology, but the differences between the two sets are clear. Traffic psychology is primarily concerned with the study of behavior in people driving on the roads and how that behavior influences their actions on the road. This is where “road rage” and all sorts of other terminological distinctions come from. Transportation psychology is, on the other hand, concerned with how people move around in general and is significantly less exciting.
Behavior and Accidents
One of the most important things that traffic psychology touches on is the relationship of behavior and accidents. The study of this behavior usually depends on various ages of drivers and their mode of transportation. Traffic psychology in this area studies such things as the attentiveness of drivers while driving, the cognitive properties of drivers, the driver’s fatigue or workload level and its impact on driving, and the social interactions of driving.
Many findings report some fairly obvious observations. The less social interaction a driver has with the other drivers on his or her road, the more likely an accident is to occur. Driver-to-driver communication is important to avoid collisions. Driver fatigue is also clearly an issue, as those drivers that are not properly rested before getting behind the wheel represent a certain risk to other drivers on the road.
Also important to look at in this area is the idea of driver personality. Drivers who are “risk-takers” are more prone to pass on a double-solid line or perform risky movements in traffic that can put other drivers at risk. This personality often influences many accidents because of the reckless abandon that the individual driver shows towards traffic and the social interactions of the other drivers.
Practical Applications
Traffic psychology has been used to perform a number of practical applications designed to make road travel safer for all drivers on the road. Traffic psychologists collaborate with engineers and city planners to plan roads to make them more effective and “driver-friendly.” Traffic psychology is also used in terms of the economics of the road, with items such as toll booths and gas prices monitored to determine their impact on drivers in general.
Traffic psychologists also introduce educational methods by which to influence good driving behavior. Habits formed through bad traffic psychology are monitored and exposed with advertising campaigns, classroom instruction, and other public property tools. The “road rage” campaigns were one example of traffic psychology at work. Other campaigns involved with traffic psychology include drunken driving campaigns and other campaigns concerned with public safety on the roads.
Traffic School Online - What You Really Need To Know Guide.
Yes, I’m a pretty good driver. In fact I grew up in a town where cars—hot rods and trucks and the like—were respected, if not revered. I had undergone my training in a driver education program at a high school that had the knowledge of wintry weather and expected the need for definite driving skills that surpassed those persons living in sunny states.. perhaps for instance driving on ice, snow, sleet etc.
In spite of being quick and hyper-alert, though I love to drive a good fast car, in all my driving years (which equals about thirty-one years); I have only had three traffic violations: the first one was when I was 16 years I had got a speeding ticket, trying to beat curfew; the second one for a no seat belt ticket, when I was pulled over because a headlamp was out; and got a red light violation one night when I much aware but wanted to get home after working continuously all day and all night at a college an hour and a half away from where I lived.
But alas last week, having just relocated to a new town only recently- in the last few months- I got pulled over yet again for speeding. For sure, I was a bit startled, personally I feel I was not speeding, but was doing 44 in a part of town where, I have since studied, the signs go from 35 to 25 to 35 to 25 (in one spot TWO SIGNS, one for 35 AND one for 25 are together?????)…almost like a speed trap set-up, if you ask me.
To my good luck, the officer was not only a cool chap, but also kind and jovial. One of the first things he said, after enquiring with me when was the last time I got a speeding ticket (which was 30 years ago), was that I could go to traffic school online!
Sure, I heard a couple of my friends talking over the last few years about traffic school online, and just about everything like how you can keep adding points to your driver record (points increasing means, evidently, insurance rates increasing), as well as learned of friends who had done traffic school online to ease the cost of the traffic ticket. (For instance, a red light violation, once a whopping $107 in my area, is now nearly $400!). Hence I now get to experience first hand the traffic school online adventure. No sooner I started to research I discovered that, logically, one must use an accredited traffic school online- one that is genuine and will issue you the documentation you need to prove to the courts you have paid your penalty.
Another thing I found out about traffic school online are they can be manageable, thus allowing you to study at your own pace or during at times when you are available; besides traffic school online is cheap; and the fact that traffic school online, if you search long enough, will surely appeal to your particular learning style—offering you games if you are a go-getter, or maybe text only if you prefer verbal instruction, as well as cartoons and short films if you are a keen visual learner.
Here’s hoping that I manage to complete my traffic school online in the next few days, and will either go with comedy or cartoons and games. They not only look promising but hopefully will not humiliate me too much with road rules I learned 31 years ago and ace on every DMV test, etc., despite the fact that once every decade “forget”. What a reminder!
In spite of being quick and hyper-alert, though I love to drive a good fast car, in all my driving years (which equals about thirty-one years); I have only had three traffic violations: the first one was when I was 16 years I had got a speeding ticket, trying to beat curfew; the second one for a no seat belt ticket, when I was pulled over because a headlamp was out; and got a red light violation one night when I much aware but wanted to get home after working continuously all day and all night at a college an hour and a half away from where I lived.
But alas last week, having just relocated to a new town only recently- in the last few months- I got pulled over yet again for speeding. For sure, I was a bit startled, personally I feel I was not speeding, but was doing 44 in a part of town where, I have since studied, the signs go from 35 to 25 to 35 to 25 (in one spot TWO SIGNS, one for 35 AND one for 25 are together?????)…almost like a speed trap set-up, if you ask me.
To my good luck, the officer was not only a cool chap, but also kind and jovial. One of the first things he said, after enquiring with me when was the last time I got a speeding ticket (which was 30 years ago), was that I could go to traffic school online!
Sure, I heard a couple of my friends talking over the last few years about traffic school online, and just about everything like how you can keep adding points to your driver record (points increasing means, evidently, insurance rates increasing), as well as learned of friends who had done traffic school online to ease the cost of the traffic ticket. (For instance, a red light violation, once a whopping $107 in my area, is now nearly $400!). Hence I now get to experience first hand the traffic school online adventure. No sooner I started to research I discovered that, logically, one must use an accredited traffic school online- one that is genuine and will issue you the documentation you need to prove to the courts you have paid your penalty.
Another thing I found out about traffic school online are they can be manageable, thus allowing you to study at your own pace or during at times when you are available; besides traffic school online is cheap; and the fact that traffic school online, if you search long enough, will surely appeal to your particular learning style—offering you games if you are a go-getter, or maybe text only if you prefer verbal instruction, as well as cartoons and short films if you are a keen visual learner.
Here’s hoping that I manage to complete my traffic school online in the next few days, and will either go with comedy or cartoons and games. They not only look promising but hopefully will not humiliate me too much with road rules I learned 31 years ago and ace on every DMV test, etc., despite the fact that once every decade “forget”. What a reminder!
Tramping & Bun Wagons: The Lingo Of The UK Road Haulage Industry
If you’ve ever heard a couple of truckers chatting between road haulage trips in the UK, you may have found yourself baffled by the assortment of phrases and expressions littered throughout the conversation. Well, consider the confusion gone; as I lift the lid on the mystery of haulage company speak:
Wagon
Wagon’s just a standard term for one’s haulage vehicle. In my experience, UK road haulage workers are fiercely proud of the ‘wagons’ and make every effort to make them as glamorous and comfortable a space as possible. Which seems fair enough, considering how long they have to spend in such a tiny space.
Tramping
This one is as a direct result of making the ‘wagon’ comfortable – many heavy haulage and logistics drivers will take to spend days at a time camped out in their ‘wagons’. Extended stays in this ‘home away from home’ is affectionately known as ‘tramping’.
Cab
Technically, the part of the ‘wagon’ that the haulage company workers will spend their time ‘tramping’ in is the front section of the lorry with the controls. This part is known, in the UK road haulage industry, as the ‘cab’.
Fitter
The fitter is, as you might expect, a mechanic charged with fixing up faulty haulage vehicles. With the daily use the ‘wagons’ take, its no wonder that a trip to the ‘fitter’ is a regular, but unwelcome part of the UK road haulage worker’s schedule.
Forky
While it’s tempting to consider this is a delightful colloquialism for cutlery, in the same way as “knifey” or “spooney” would be, it’s actually just the term for a fork lift truck driver.
Shed
The ‘shed’ is simply the term for the warehouse – think of it as where the ‘forkies’ live.
Bun Wagon
I must admit, I was lost for words when I first heard this little gem slipped into conversation. What it actually refers to is one of those mobile fast food vans, which is often overly tempting to a haulage company worker with a rumbling stomach!
Back Loads
In normal deliveries, you take your ‘load’ up to the delivery point, then drive back and collect another. The back load is a clever solution to save on fuel costs, where the driver arranges to make another pickup at the drop off point, allowing them to earn a little more and save on fuel costs with a well timed delivery on the journey home.
Milk Run
If a haulage company’s driver has a days work composing of quite a few deliveries on a set route, the day’s work is playfully described as a ‘milk run’.
Finally, there are a couple of expressions that workers in the UK road haulage industry are well used to hearing, much to their frustration:
“It’s only 2 inches on the map – what’s taken you so long?”
Usually delivered in a frustrated tone, to regular haulage company drivers, inches on a map can be easily translated into an approximate delivery time!
“I’ll call you back in a minute”
In more professions, this means exactly what it says: you will be called back shortly, because something’s come up. In the world of heavy freight and logistics, this almost universally means “I have tired of talking to you now, and am going to end the conversation.”
Wagon
Wagon’s just a standard term for one’s haulage vehicle. In my experience, UK road haulage workers are fiercely proud of the ‘wagons’ and make every effort to make them as glamorous and comfortable a space as possible. Which seems fair enough, considering how long they have to spend in such a tiny space.
Tramping
This one is as a direct result of making the ‘wagon’ comfortable – many heavy haulage and logistics drivers will take to spend days at a time camped out in their ‘wagons’. Extended stays in this ‘home away from home’ is affectionately known as ‘tramping’.
Cab
Technically, the part of the ‘wagon’ that the haulage company workers will spend their time ‘tramping’ in is the front section of the lorry with the controls. This part is known, in the UK road haulage industry, as the ‘cab’.
Fitter
The fitter is, as you might expect, a mechanic charged with fixing up faulty haulage vehicles. With the daily use the ‘wagons’ take, its no wonder that a trip to the ‘fitter’ is a regular, but unwelcome part of the UK road haulage worker’s schedule.
Forky
While it’s tempting to consider this is a delightful colloquialism for cutlery, in the same way as “knifey” or “spooney” would be, it’s actually just the term for a fork lift truck driver.
Shed
The ‘shed’ is simply the term for the warehouse – think of it as where the ‘forkies’ live.
Bun Wagon
I must admit, I was lost for words when I first heard this little gem slipped into conversation. What it actually refers to is one of those mobile fast food vans, which is often overly tempting to a haulage company worker with a rumbling stomach!
Back Loads
In normal deliveries, you take your ‘load’ up to the delivery point, then drive back and collect another. The back load is a clever solution to save on fuel costs, where the driver arranges to make another pickup at the drop off point, allowing them to earn a little more and save on fuel costs with a well timed delivery on the journey home.
Milk Run
If a haulage company’s driver has a days work composing of quite a few deliveries on a set route, the day’s work is playfully described as a ‘milk run’.
Finally, there are a couple of expressions that workers in the UK road haulage industry are well used to hearing, much to their frustration:
“It’s only 2 inches on the map – what’s taken you so long?”
Usually delivered in a frustrated tone, to regular haulage company drivers, inches on a map can be easily translated into an approximate delivery time!
“I’ll call you back in a minute”
In more professions, this means exactly what it says: you will be called back shortly, because something’s come up. In the world of heavy freight and logistics, this almost universally means “I have tired of talking to you now, and am going to end the conversation.”
Tread Lightly! What You Should Know About 4 Wheelers.
My husband and I live in a recreational area in central Minnesota. As with most recreation areas throughout the country this means many frequently use 4 wheelers around us. We have 4 wheelers ourselves that we use to plow snow from our driveway, haul wood from the wood pile to the house and to travel the recreation trails of the area. We also use our 4 wheelers during the deer hunting season to get back to our deer stands and to transport the deer out of the woods. I think they are a useful and fun vehicle; however there are so many people who use their 4 wheelers to destroy the natural beauty of our State unknowingly or purposefully.
It all starts from the fortunate fact that there are several paths in the acreage behind our home for 4 wheelers. We normally use these paths to go from one neighbor’s home to another and to simply walk in the beautiful woods. The wooded area where the paths are located has quite dense vegetation filled with very old beautiful hardwood maples and ash trees. This wooded area is classified under tax forfeited land, so it is collectively owned by the State of Minnesota. There is an agreement among the neighbors that we will all do our best to keep the paths clear of brush and fallen debris. However, there are no rules or guidelines whatsoever about the use of 4 wheelers on the paths. Everyone used common sense and was courteous to each other as well as to Mother Nature.
Everything seemed to be going well, until one particular day. Recently our path system was discovered by a group of 4 wheelers that are now using it as a connection from one racing area to another. The racing causes an excessive amount of noise and some serious damage to the wooded area, which prompted the interference of the department of natural resources which stepped in and banned the use of ATV’s in this wooded area.
This has been a great disappointment to those of us who were using our 4 wheelers responsibly. When I mentioned this to some of my co-workers I was surprised to find out a majority of them thought that all ATV trails should be closed. Many people see these trails as dangerous and harmful to the environment. I was amazed that they saw the 4 wheelers as a bad thing per se. A close look at the situation should reveal that the real culprits are those irresponsible people driving them.
The woods behind our house are much quieter now. People still use the paths for walking and nature-gazing. The thing that still bugs me is that others are getting the message that 4 wheelers are bad for nature, when the true message should be irresponsible people are really what are bad for nature. It is unfair that thoughtless behavior by some people is over – generalized and affects the entire community. I love Nature. I love my 4 wheelers, too. They can co-exist.
It all starts from the fortunate fact that there are several paths in the acreage behind our home for 4 wheelers. We normally use these paths to go from one neighbor’s home to another and to simply walk in the beautiful woods. The wooded area where the paths are located has quite dense vegetation filled with very old beautiful hardwood maples and ash trees. This wooded area is classified under tax forfeited land, so it is collectively owned by the State of Minnesota. There is an agreement among the neighbors that we will all do our best to keep the paths clear of brush and fallen debris. However, there are no rules or guidelines whatsoever about the use of 4 wheelers on the paths. Everyone used common sense and was courteous to each other as well as to Mother Nature.
Everything seemed to be going well, until one particular day. Recently our path system was discovered by a group of 4 wheelers that are now using it as a connection from one racing area to another. The racing causes an excessive amount of noise and some serious damage to the wooded area, which prompted the interference of the department of natural resources which stepped in and banned the use of ATV’s in this wooded area.
This has been a great disappointment to those of us who were using our 4 wheelers responsibly. When I mentioned this to some of my co-workers I was surprised to find out a majority of them thought that all ATV trails should be closed. Many people see these trails as dangerous and harmful to the environment. I was amazed that they saw the 4 wheelers as a bad thing per se. A close look at the situation should reveal that the real culprits are those irresponsible people driving them.
The woods behind our house are much quieter now. People still use the paths for walking and nature-gazing. The thing that still bugs me is that others are getting the message that 4 wheelers are bad for nature, when the true message should be irresponsible people are really what are bad for nature. It is unfair that thoughtless behavior by some people is over – generalized and affects the entire community. I love Nature. I love my 4 wheelers, too. They can co-exist.
Thursday, January 28, 2010
Trip Preps: Seven Easy Steps To A Safer Road-trip
Okay, you’ve made the decision: you’re going on a cross-country vacation, and instead of renting a car, you’ll be taking your own. Take these few simple precautions to ensure that your trip is as safe and enjoyable as possible:
1) Plan your trip strategically.
“Doing your homework” may not sound very exciting or romantic, but many an adventure has been derailed by lack of planning. Know where you’re going, the route you expect to take, and how long it should take you to get there. Travel-related Internet sites and your local AAA can help you to plot a course, find lodging and fuel stations, and avoid construction or heavy traffic. Have a good road atlas and maps in the glove box.
2) Make sure that your car is mechanically sound.
Before embarking on our trip, make sure that your vehicle is in top condition: engine, cooling systems, brakes, and other vital systems. Check the oil and other fluids before leaving. Lastly, make sure that your tires are in top condition and properly inflated; the experience of having to change a flat tire or wait on the roadside for assistance is not likely to enhance your vacation.
3) Be ready for common (and uncommon) roadside emergencies.
Forewarned is forearmed. Though it may seem unlikely, proceed as if you expect to get a flat tire or a radiator leak. Pack the standard essential items such as a tire-changing kit (including a spare tire), jumper cables, and road flares. Beyond that, let your imagination roam and prepare for the worst—carry extra windshield wipers, an approved gasoline container, motor oil, elastic tie-downs, or whatever else you could potentially need.
4) Carry food and beverages in the car.
Even if you plan to stop for meals, it never hurts to have provisions in the car with you. If you break down in an isolated area, you’ll at least have food and drink to sustain you until help comes.
5) Pack a standard first-aid kit.
Prepackaged first-aid kits come in a variety of sizes and levels of complexity, and are easy to just stow in your car. Packing your own kit, though, allows you to individualize its contents according to the medical needs of you and your family. Include standard first-aid fare like bandages, antiseptic ointment, an antibacterial cleanser, alcohol, tweezers, and fingernail scissors. For medications, include an analgesic, an anti-diarrheal, a medication for motion sickness, and an antihistamine.
6) Make frequent stops.
For reasons of health and comfort, it’s far better to make frequent stops. Individuals who are elderly or suffer from poor circulation should be able to get out of the car and move around briskly, about every 90 minutes if possible. Individuals who aren’t will still benefit from short, frequent bouts of exercise to relieve the stiffness and discomfort of sitting immobile for extended periods of time.
7) When fatigued, stop for the night.
Often vacationers try to “drive straight through,” making as few stops as they can manage. Sure, this may get you to your destination a little more quickly…or it may keep you from arriving at all. Fatigue dulls your senses and slows your reaction time, decreasing your ability to respond quickly and effectively to circumstances. The usual remedies for sleepiness while driving—rolling down the windows, turning up the radio, and drinking caffeinated beverages—only postpone the inevitable. Stop somewhere for the night, if you can. If necessary, pull over to the side of the road and revive yourself with a short nap. If your body’s trying to tell you that it needs rest, it’s best to listen.
1) Plan your trip strategically.
“Doing your homework” may not sound very exciting or romantic, but many an adventure has been derailed by lack of planning. Know where you’re going, the route you expect to take, and how long it should take you to get there. Travel-related Internet sites and your local AAA can help you to plot a course, find lodging and fuel stations, and avoid construction or heavy traffic. Have a good road atlas and maps in the glove box.
2) Make sure that your car is mechanically sound.
Before embarking on our trip, make sure that your vehicle is in top condition: engine, cooling systems, brakes, and other vital systems. Check the oil and other fluids before leaving. Lastly, make sure that your tires are in top condition and properly inflated; the experience of having to change a flat tire or wait on the roadside for assistance is not likely to enhance your vacation.
3) Be ready for common (and uncommon) roadside emergencies.
Forewarned is forearmed. Though it may seem unlikely, proceed as if you expect to get a flat tire or a radiator leak. Pack the standard essential items such as a tire-changing kit (including a spare tire), jumper cables, and road flares. Beyond that, let your imagination roam and prepare for the worst—carry extra windshield wipers, an approved gasoline container, motor oil, elastic tie-downs, or whatever else you could potentially need.
4) Carry food and beverages in the car.
Even if you plan to stop for meals, it never hurts to have provisions in the car with you. If you break down in an isolated area, you’ll at least have food and drink to sustain you until help comes.
5) Pack a standard first-aid kit.
Prepackaged first-aid kits come in a variety of sizes and levels of complexity, and are easy to just stow in your car. Packing your own kit, though, allows you to individualize its contents according to the medical needs of you and your family. Include standard first-aid fare like bandages, antiseptic ointment, an antibacterial cleanser, alcohol, tweezers, and fingernail scissors. For medications, include an analgesic, an anti-diarrheal, a medication for motion sickness, and an antihistamine.
6) Make frequent stops.
For reasons of health and comfort, it’s far better to make frequent stops. Individuals who are elderly or suffer from poor circulation should be able to get out of the car and move around briskly, about every 90 minutes if possible. Individuals who aren’t will still benefit from short, frequent bouts of exercise to relieve the stiffness and discomfort of sitting immobile for extended periods of time.
7) When fatigued, stop for the night.
Often vacationers try to “drive straight through,” making as few stops as they can manage. Sure, this may get you to your destination a little more quickly…or it may keep you from arriving at all. Fatigue dulls your senses and slows your reaction time, decreasing your ability to respond quickly and effectively to circumstances. The usual remedies for sleepiness while driving—rolling down the windows, turning up the radio, and drinking caffeinated beverages—only postpone the inevitable. Stop somewhere for the night, if you can. If necessary, pull over to the side of the road and revive yourself with a short nap. If your body’s trying to tell you that it needs rest, it’s best to listen.
Truck Accessories
If you own a pickup truck you might have the desire to change it up a little. Doesn’t matter what kind of change or look you are going for you can get the right parts that will transform the look of your car.
You can get accessories at the dealer you bought your car from, but buying the accessories online will give you a wider rang of selections. Not only will shopping online give you a wider selection but you can save quite a bit of money. You will more likely encounter deals and bargains on the internet.
Let’s talk about exterior accessories first. There are many different exterior accessories available to change the outside of your truck. Some of the accessories are air dams, bug shields, bumpers, bras and masks, fender flares, graphics and emblems, grille guards, hoods and scoops, mirrors, roll pans, truck steps, rack and cargo accessories, wings and spoilers and the list goes on. However you should select items that will complement your truck, make sure it doesn’t look all cluttered.
Changing the interior of your car is more the comfort then anything else. Some example of accessories you can get are seat covers, door accessories, floor mats, horns, cargo trays and liner, 12 volt accessories, instrumental panel covers, pet accessories and much more.
Another way to change you interior is by adding electronic features. Such as GPS and navigation systems, CD or satellite radio, radar and laser detector, security systems and antennas, remote starters and many other things.
It is hard t list all the different types of accessories that you can add to your truck in one article. You will be able to see and find out more accessories available on the internet. You might just find what you are looking for. Whatever you have in mind you will be able to get the truck you’ve always wanted.
You can get accessories at the dealer you bought your car from, but buying the accessories online will give you a wider rang of selections. Not only will shopping online give you a wider selection but you can save quite a bit of money. You will more likely encounter deals and bargains on the internet.
Let’s talk about exterior accessories first. There are many different exterior accessories available to change the outside of your truck. Some of the accessories are air dams, bug shields, bumpers, bras and masks, fender flares, graphics and emblems, grille guards, hoods and scoops, mirrors, roll pans, truck steps, rack and cargo accessories, wings and spoilers and the list goes on. However you should select items that will complement your truck, make sure it doesn’t look all cluttered.
Changing the interior of your car is more the comfort then anything else. Some example of accessories you can get are seat covers, door accessories, floor mats, horns, cargo trays and liner, 12 volt accessories, instrumental panel covers, pet accessories and much more.
Another way to change you interior is by adding electronic features. Such as GPS and navigation systems, CD or satellite radio, radar and laser detector, security systems and antennas, remote starters and many other things.
It is hard t list all the different types of accessories that you can add to your truck in one article. You will be able to see and find out more accessories available on the internet. You might just find what you are looking for. Whatever you have in mind you will be able to get the truck you’ve always wanted.
Truck and SUV Exhaust Systems - Different Styles
Let’s assume that you have decided to purchase a performance exhaust system. Let’s also assume that you already know the benefits of putting a high-performance exhaust system on your truck or SUV: better gas mileage, more horsepower and torque, and a louder, high-performance sound. These high-performance exhaust systems give you all of those benefits by providing less restriction and making it easier for your motor to send it’s exhaust gases through the exhaust system.
And just a side note, the following phrases all mean the same thing: cat-back exhaust, high-performance exhaust, high-flow exhaust system, performance exhaust, free-flowing exhaust, aftermarket exhaust, and custom exhaust.
So, now that you already know the benefits of a high-flowing exhaust system, let’s talk about the different styles or the different configurations for cat-back exhaust systems.
Single Side Exit
This type of aftermarket exhaust system uses one pipe to vent the exhaust gases from your motor and away from your truck or SUV. Typically, these have an exit location (where the end of the pipe is) just behind the rear, passenger-side wheel. These also generally cost less than a system with two exhaust pipes. Surprisingly, these single pipe systems tend to produce more power than most dual systems.
Dual Side Exit
This style of custom exhaust system is quite similar to the Single Side Exit, but uses two pipes to exit the exhaust gases from your truck or SUV instead of one. This means that your engine has less restriction and generally has quicker throttle response. It also lends itself to producing a louder, more aggressive exhaust tone.
Dual Rear Exit
This configuration of high-flow exhaust system uses two pipes to vent the exhaust gases from your motor. This unique design differs from the previous two because the pipes exit out the rear of the vehicle, just under the bumper or roll pan. This free-flowing style of exhaust system has all of the benefits of the Dual Side Exit exhaust but can be perceived as louder because the sound is directed out the rear of your vehicle, directly at the traffic behind you. Depending on how aggressive your driving habits are, this can either be a good thing, or a bad thing. One side note: you may not be interested in this exhaust system if you are towing any kind of trailer because the exhaust gases can leave soot on whatever you’re towing.
Extreme Dual Exit or Opposite Side Dual
This style of cat-back exhaust uses two pipes to exit the exhaust gases from your motor but differs from the Dual Rear Exit. The Extreme Dual Exit has one pipe exiting behind each rear tire. This free-flowing exhaust system has all of the same benefits of the other dual systems, but unlike the Dual Rear Exit, it won’t leave soot on your trailer.
For more information on truck accessories, please visit TruckAccessory.com.
And just a side note, the following phrases all mean the same thing: cat-back exhaust, high-performance exhaust, high-flow exhaust system, performance exhaust, free-flowing exhaust, aftermarket exhaust, and custom exhaust.
So, now that you already know the benefits of a high-flowing exhaust system, let’s talk about the different styles or the different configurations for cat-back exhaust systems.
Single Side Exit
This type of aftermarket exhaust system uses one pipe to vent the exhaust gases from your motor and away from your truck or SUV. Typically, these have an exit location (where the end of the pipe is) just behind the rear, passenger-side wheel. These also generally cost less than a system with two exhaust pipes. Surprisingly, these single pipe systems tend to produce more power than most dual systems.
Dual Side Exit
This style of custom exhaust system is quite similar to the Single Side Exit, but uses two pipes to exit the exhaust gases from your truck or SUV instead of one. This means that your engine has less restriction and generally has quicker throttle response. It also lends itself to producing a louder, more aggressive exhaust tone.
Dual Rear Exit
This configuration of high-flow exhaust system uses two pipes to vent the exhaust gases from your motor. This unique design differs from the previous two because the pipes exit out the rear of the vehicle, just under the bumper or roll pan. This free-flowing style of exhaust system has all of the benefits of the Dual Side Exit exhaust but can be perceived as louder because the sound is directed out the rear of your vehicle, directly at the traffic behind you. Depending on how aggressive your driving habits are, this can either be a good thing, or a bad thing. One side note: you may not be interested in this exhaust system if you are towing any kind of trailer because the exhaust gases can leave soot on whatever you’re towing.
Extreme Dual Exit or Opposite Side Dual
This style of cat-back exhaust uses two pipes to exit the exhaust gases from your motor but differs from the Dual Rear Exit. The Extreme Dual Exit has one pipe exiting behind each rear tire. This free-flowing exhaust system has all of the same benefits of the other dual systems, but unlike the Dual Rear Exit, it won’t leave soot on your trailer.
For more information on truck accessories, please visit TruckAccessory.com.
Truck Covers For A Snug Fit
Much like car covers, a high quality custom fitted truck cover can protect your pick up truck from a whole cluster of nasty insults to your truck’s body. Even if you park your truck in a garage and give it regular washes and polishes, your finish can soon diminish and your truck quickly show its age without the added benefit of using a truck cover. Let’s take a look at some of the advantages of owning a truck cover and what you need to look for when considering purchasing a high quality product.
When you choose your truck cover, you will soon discover that even just one manufacturer can make several assorted covers for the same truck model. Simple covers offer partial protection from the elements while first-rate truck covers offer far-reaching protection.
The following are some of the key features found in a high quality truck cover:
Provides protection from harmful and penetrating rays of the sun.
Resists moisture, including rain, snow, sleet, hail, and ice.
Diverts airborne rubbish and/or small impacts on the truck’s body including dings, scratches, and unsightly marks.
Limits the ability of pollution, dust, and dirt from marring your finish.
Completely withstands bird excrement, tree sap, bug nesting, feral cats, etc.
Keeps the prying eyes of strangers away from your truck who can rub up against your finish and/or look inside your truck to see what they can steal from it.
The highest quality truck covers generally come equipped with mirror pockets to give your truck a truly snug fit. Most covers are made of 1 to 4 layers of durable polypropylene [a thermoplastic polymer that is highly resistant to acid and chemical solvents]; so the more layers you have means superior protection for your truck from each of the listed hazards.
Garaged pick up trucks, while not subject to the same hazards as one always left outside, are still vulnerable to seeing its finish marred by indoor pollution and dust. Many motorists, in the interest of preserving their finish will garage their trucks and then cover them over with a truck cover to ensure maximum protection.
Prices for truck covers vary, however you can save yourself some cash by purchasing one through a wholesaler who gets their supply directly from the manufacturer. You avoid third party markups and if you shop via an online retailer, you can avoid additional mark ups in price and in some cases get your cover shipped to you for free.
More often than not, your truck cover will come with a warranty. You can expect your high quality truck cover to provide great protection for a reasonable amount of money. A worthy investment, indeed.
When you choose your truck cover, you will soon discover that even just one manufacturer can make several assorted covers for the same truck model. Simple covers offer partial protection from the elements while first-rate truck covers offer far-reaching protection.
The following are some of the key features found in a high quality truck cover:
The highest quality truck covers generally come equipped with mirror pockets to give your truck a truly snug fit. Most covers are made of 1 to 4 layers of durable polypropylene [a thermoplastic polymer that is highly resistant to acid and chemical solvents]; so the more layers you have means superior protection for your truck from each of the listed hazards.
Garaged pick up trucks, while not subject to the same hazards as one always left outside, are still vulnerable to seeing its finish marred by indoor pollution and dust. Many motorists, in the interest of preserving their finish will garage their trucks and then cover them over with a truck cover to ensure maximum protection.
Prices for truck covers vary, however you can save yourself some cash by purchasing one through a wholesaler who gets their supply directly from the manufacturer. You avoid third party markups and if you shop via an online retailer, you can avoid additional mark ups in price and in some cases get your cover shipped to you for free.
More often than not, your truck cover will come with a warranty. You can expect your high quality truck cover to provide great protection for a reasonable amount of money. A worthy investment, indeed.
Truck Driver Safety - Behavior Plays a Vital Role
Hiring the wrong truck drivers can be disastrous. Hiring the right ones can save lives.
Naturally, safety training plays an important role in driver safety. Other factors may be even more significant according to a 1993 study conducted by Behavioral-Values Research Associates.
The research was conducted on maintenance workers between the ages of 22 and 64, who had been with (XYZ) Company for an average of 17.5 years. They were given four assessments that measured their behavioral style and attitudes, their knowledge of safety rules, and their pictorial and mechanical reasoning abilities. Interestingly, the study shows the only significant differences between the two groups of workers (injured vs. non-injured) were in their behavioral styles and attitudes/values.
The research validates that when companies implement a pre-hiring assessment selection system, four things happen. These companies:
· Reduce accidents
· Reduce worker’s comp claims
· Reduce turnover
· Reduce maintenance costs.
G & P Trucking in Gaston, SC, has been assessing the behaviors of all driver applicants for seven years. G & P President, Clifton Parker says, “We are doing a better job during the hiring process. The behavior testing has given us insight on the applicants’ true beliefs and actions rather than finding out later. The bottom line is that it has helped us lower accident cost.”
Common sense tells us that truck drivers who are naturally careful and cautious are going to cause fewer accidents than those who are prone to experience “road rage.” So, trucking companies would be wise to hire drivers with a “long fuse,” people who are slow to anger.
The safest drivers are those who are steady and cautious by nature, and those who genuinely put others’ well being above their own. The BVRA research found workers with the best safety records are those who are high in the “S” and “C” behavioral styles and low in the “D” factor. They are also high in the Social value. Let me explain.
In 1928, Harvard psychologist William Moulton Marston defined the four behavioral styles (DISC) we all have in varying degrees. Around the same time, psychologist Eduard Spranger published his studies of six values or attitudes that determine how we view the world and what’s important to us.
Target Training International in Scottsdale, AZ, continued their research and produced the first computer-generated behavior and values assessments that companies use today to hire and manage the best employees. These are two of the assessments used in the BVRA research project.
The four behavioral styles are “D”-Dominant, “I”-Influencing, “S”-Steady, and “C”-Cautious.
Those high in the “D” factor want control, they are quick to anger, and become impatient easily. They are the ones most likely to experience “road rage” if they don’t like the way someone else is driving.
Those high in the “I” behavioral factor are extroverted and people oriented; they talk a lot and like attention. The research found no significant difference in the “I” factor between the injured and non-injured workers.
People high in the “S” factor are steady and patient, they move slowly, and have a strong focus on their team’s success. So we can see why those with a Core “S” style are more likely to be safe drivers.
Those high in the “C” factor are extremely cautious, pay attention to detail, and believe in following rules set by others.
So, it’s understandable that truck drivers high in both the “S” and “C” factors, and low in the “D” style will have or cause fewer accidents. It’s also significant that research shows those high in the Social value are the safest workers because they selflessly put others’ needs above their own.
One thing BVRA‘s research didn’t show, which I believe is significant, is the ranking of those workers in the Individualistic Value. Even more than those with Core “D” behavioral styles, people high in this value are passionate about having power and control over situations and other people, so I believe it’s important for trucking companies to hire drivers who are low in this attitude.
Simply put, the ideal driver – the one you want to hire – is one who is high in the “S” and “C” behavioral factors, low in the “D” factor, high in the Social value, and low in the Individualistic attitude.
©2006 Annette Estes. All Rights Reserved. Permission to reprint granted as long as entire text and tag line are included.
Naturally, safety training plays an important role in driver safety. Other factors may be even more significant according to a 1993 study conducted by Behavioral-Values Research Associates.
The research was conducted on maintenance workers between the ages of 22 and 64, who had been with (XYZ) Company for an average of 17.5 years. They were given four assessments that measured their behavioral style and attitudes, their knowledge of safety rules, and their pictorial and mechanical reasoning abilities. Interestingly, the study shows the only significant differences between the two groups of workers (injured vs. non-injured) were in their behavioral styles and attitudes/values.
The research validates that when companies implement a pre-hiring assessment selection system, four things happen. These companies:
· Reduce accidents
· Reduce worker’s comp claims
· Reduce turnover
· Reduce maintenance costs.
G & P Trucking in Gaston, SC, has been assessing the behaviors of all driver applicants for seven years. G & P President, Clifton Parker says, “We are doing a better job during the hiring process. The behavior testing has given us insight on the applicants’ true beliefs and actions rather than finding out later. The bottom line is that it has helped us lower accident cost.”
Common sense tells us that truck drivers who are naturally careful and cautious are going to cause fewer accidents than those who are prone to experience “road rage.” So, trucking companies would be wise to hire drivers with a “long fuse,” people who are slow to anger.
The safest drivers are those who are steady and cautious by nature, and those who genuinely put others’ well being above their own. The BVRA research found workers with the best safety records are those who are high in the “S” and “C” behavioral styles and low in the “D” factor. They are also high in the Social value. Let me explain.
In 1928, Harvard psychologist William Moulton Marston defined the four behavioral styles (DISC) we all have in varying degrees. Around the same time, psychologist Eduard Spranger published his studies of six values or attitudes that determine how we view the world and what’s important to us.
Target Training International in Scottsdale, AZ, continued their research and produced the first computer-generated behavior and values assessments that companies use today to hire and manage the best employees. These are two of the assessments used in the BVRA research project.
The four behavioral styles are “D”-Dominant, “I”-Influencing, “S”-Steady, and “C”-Cautious.
Those high in the “D” factor want control, they are quick to anger, and become impatient easily. They are the ones most likely to experience “road rage” if they don’t like the way someone else is driving.
Those high in the “I” behavioral factor are extroverted and people oriented; they talk a lot and like attention. The research found no significant difference in the “I” factor between the injured and non-injured workers.
People high in the “S” factor are steady and patient, they move slowly, and have a strong focus on their team’s success. So we can see why those with a Core “S” style are more likely to be safe drivers.
Those high in the “C” factor are extremely cautious, pay attention to detail, and believe in following rules set by others.
So, it’s understandable that truck drivers high in both the “S” and “C” factors, and low in the “D” style will have or cause fewer accidents. It’s also significant that research shows those high in the Social value are the safest workers because they selflessly put others’ needs above their own.
One thing BVRA‘s research didn’t show, which I believe is significant, is the ranking of those workers in the Individualistic Value. Even more than those with Core “D” behavioral styles, people high in this value are passionate about having power and control over situations and other people, so I believe it’s important for trucking companies to hire drivers who are low in this attitude.
Simply put, the ideal driver – the one you want to hire – is one who is high in the “S” and “C” behavioral factors, low in the “D” factor, high in the Social value, and low in the Individualistic attitude.
©2006 Annette Estes. All Rights Reserved. Permission to reprint granted as long as entire text and tag line are included.
Truck Parts Are in the Eye of the Beholder
In the performance parts industry, people tend to use the words parts and accessories interchangeably, while others see a difference. So what’s the difference, for example, between truck parts and truck accessories if many of them serve the same basic function? It depends on who you ask.
Because the words parts and accessories each encompass a large number of products that overlap and can therefore be categorized as either, people tend to the use the words interchangeably without any regard to the difference. In reality, when dealing with the performance parts industry, the word only overlaps in certain instances, and even then opinions will vary as to which factors apply. Truck parts and truck accessories each have their own list of included products, which ‘meet in the middle’ depending on their intended use, as well as their categorization as an OEM or aftermarket product.
A truck parts advisor for example, may tell you that a truck part has a more generic definition, and includes everything from repair, maintenance, and restoration, to interior and exterior enhancement. Such products may include oil filters, air filters, shocks, spoilers, or headlamps, as they in effect, are part of the truck. So long as they are the original part of the truck, or even a replacement or repair product, it can be described as a part whereas an aftermarket part created to enhance the vehicle after the initial purchase tends to fall into the accessory category.
In the meantime, the same parts advisor may tell you that the word accessory is synonymous with the word part when referring to a product in general, but the specific make and use of the product will determine which category it falls into.
Car covers, sun shields, make-specific paraphernalia and such products that serve mainly to enhance a car or truck (such as lift kits) would most likely be considered solely accessories. A sport utility rack could potentially fall into either.
Even oil filters, brake pads or rotors, or air filters could fall into either category. The standard, OEM version will typically be considered a truck part whereas a performance-based aftermarket version thereof will more likely be considered a Truck accessory (such as K&N oil filters, which take advantage of advanced filtration technology you won’t find in its standard OEM counterpart). A lift kit, which isn’t something that’s included with the truck but rather used as an enhancement will typically be classified as an accessory, though some will still call it a truck part.
The items that tend to be categorized specifically as accessories are aftermarket products made to enhance (whether it be performance or aesthetic). For example aftermarket air filters, high quality seat covers, and floor mats for trucks are typically considered truck accessories if they are not the original OEM part. The issue becomes even more clouded once you get into OEM-made accessories vs. aftermarket accessories or even aftermarket parts, but that’s a completely different article.
In the end, the difference between the two will always vary from person to person, even among truck enthusiasts and professionals within the repair or performance parts industry.
Because the words parts and accessories each encompass a large number of products that overlap and can therefore be categorized as either, people tend to the use the words interchangeably without any regard to the difference. In reality, when dealing with the performance parts industry, the word only overlaps in certain instances, and even then opinions will vary as to which factors apply. Truck parts and truck accessories each have their own list of included products, which ‘meet in the middle’ depending on their intended use, as well as their categorization as an OEM or aftermarket product.
A truck parts advisor for example, may tell you that a truck part has a more generic definition, and includes everything from repair, maintenance, and restoration, to interior and exterior enhancement. Such products may include oil filters, air filters, shocks, spoilers, or headlamps, as they in effect, are part of the truck. So long as they are the original part of the truck, or even a replacement or repair product, it can be described as a part whereas an aftermarket part created to enhance the vehicle after the initial purchase tends to fall into the accessory category.
In the meantime, the same parts advisor may tell you that the word accessory is synonymous with the word part when referring to a product in general, but the specific make and use of the product will determine which category it falls into.
Car covers, sun shields, make-specific paraphernalia and such products that serve mainly to enhance a car or truck (such as lift kits) would most likely be considered solely accessories. A sport utility rack could potentially fall into either.
Even oil filters, brake pads or rotors, or air filters could fall into either category. The standard, OEM version will typically be considered a truck part whereas a performance-based aftermarket version thereof will more likely be considered a Truck accessory (such as K&N oil filters, which take advantage of advanced filtration technology you won’t find in its standard OEM counterpart). A lift kit, which isn’t something that’s included with the truck but rather used as an enhancement will typically be classified as an accessory, though some will still call it a truck part.
The items that tend to be categorized specifically as accessories are aftermarket products made to enhance (whether it be performance or aesthetic). For example aftermarket air filters, high quality seat covers, and floor mats for trucks are typically considered truck accessories if they are not the original OEM part. The issue becomes even more clouded once you get into OEM-made accessories vs. aftermarket accessories or even aftermarket parts, but that’s a completely different article.
In the end, the difference between the two will always vary from person to person, even among truck enthusiasts and professionals within the repair or performance parts industry.
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