When you're going in for your next car purchase keep your eyes peeled for the following scams.
1. The VIN# Window Etching Scam - Some dealers will charge you $300-$900 for window VIN# etching and tell you that you have to pay the money to get the loan because the bank insists on it. Don't go for it.
Some dealers might tell you that the etching is free but will add on the etch money to your monthly payments to make up for it. Anytime a dealer says something is free, get it in writing and check your monthly fee. The best way to avoid this scam is to force the dealer to put it in writing if they say that the etching is free or simply etch the car yourself.
You can get an etch-it-yourself kit from http://www.CarEtch.com for $30 or just don’t buy the car. Remember a lender doesn’t require that you purchase any extras on a car. All the lender cares about is that you can make your regular payments on time.
2. The Financing Scam - You trade in your old car in and the finance manager signs you up at the agreed interest rate and gives you the car. After a week or two passes and he/she calls saying that you didn’t qualify for the interest rates that they gave you when the deal was made.
Every new purchase has a clause in the contract that usually states that the deal is “subject to loan approval.” This gives the finance manager an opening to get more money out of you. All that this clause means in the contract is that the deal is not finished yet even if you already have possession of the car and have signed the contract. The dealer can then charge you $1000 more in finance fees and up your monthly payments by $50. This scam is generally pulled on people with bad credit because it is more believable.
You can avoid this scam by not financing the car with the dealer if you know that you have bad credit. You are better off going to a credit union and financing the car yourself. When you buy a new car the deal should be made on the price of the car, not on the monthly payments.
3. The Credit Score Scam - This is desperation in action. This is when the finance manager tells you that your credit score is lower than it really is so that they can get you for higher interest rates. This scam is pulled on everyone; good or bad credit. This scam is easy to avoid. Just get your own copy of your credit report from Equifax.com, and bring it with you.
It's pretty hard to lie to you about your credit score if you have your own copy of it. If your paper and theirs doesn’t say the same thing, you might want to shop elsewhere because that dealership is sleazy. Don’t hesitate to let them know it too because it’ll be nice to watch them try to back out of that one.
4. The Forced Warranty Scam - This is when the finance manager tells you that you are not eligible for the loan by the bank unless you pay an extra $2000 for a 2-3 year extended warranty. It's hard to believe they even try this. Why would the bank trust you to pay a $22,000 loan for the car, but they will not trust you to pay for a $20,000 loan?? That’s just insane.
You can avoid this scam by forcing them to put it in writing that you “have” to pay the extended warranty in order to get the loan. Just let them know you'd like to check with the contract your local State’s Attorney’s office for validity and they'll drop the extended warranty in a heartbeat.
5. The Dealer Preparation Scam - Unfortunately, this is legal and very much common practice. I still refer to it as a scam because it is just another way to get more money from you for nothing. The dealer will tell you that you have to pay an extra $500 to cover the labor costs of the dealership’s 5-point inspection.
This alleged check up that you are paying so much money for, is for the dealership to remove plastic from the seats, vacuum the car, maybe, and make sure all of the fuses and fluids are ready to go. When factories deliver the new cars to the dealerships the cost of delivery and preparation is already covered, so basically you are paying the dealership for work that they haven’t really done.
You can avoid this scam by simply asking the dealership to add an extra $500 credit to the deal to make sure you do not have to pay the money. If they refuse, the choice is yours. If you think it's fine buy the car, if not; try another dealer that will remove the dealer preparation costs.
If you can avoid these 5 car dealership scams when buying your next new car, you'll be way ahead of the game.
Tuesday, October 5, 2010
Monday, October 4, 2010
How To Build Your Own Sports Car
Cars have long since been held as a fascinating piece of engineering and the vehicle has come a long way since the invention of the wheel. Boys and to some extent girls are into playing with cars from a young age and for many this fascination goes on to become a hobby. Some collect, others learn to drive and drive as much as they can, yet others turn their driving passion towards racing and other car oriented sports. In the sporting arena we have the sports car enthusiasts who will do anything to be with their cars.
Another category is the sports car fan and drivers who have graduated to actual production of these cars. They will go on to build cars from scratch to resemble some of the most valuable and rare cars in the history of cars. These are called kit car owners who go the distance to make quality replicas of the original vehicle. Now the end product looks almost indistinguishable from the original. Take the famous Cobra - it has a lot of takers.
There is something to be said about getting the tool box out and building your own replicar. Some actually revel in the challenge that this hobby brings with it. You also get to create your dream car without spending a fortune on it. Replicars facilitate building your own car ground upwards using a kit body along with a common mainstream automotive base and other parts. In itself the world of replicars is a different world altogether which comprises builders and fans. They hold rallies and get togethers where there is a lot of interaction and a lot of ideas are exchanged and most tend to find parts that they need and another does not. Not only does this hobby encourage more socializing with like minded people it also brings with it a heady mix of people from different walks of life and one gets a chance to learn about different aspects of replicars and others’ experiences.
A personally-built car means you have a very clear idea of your car’s capability and limitations. So the success of your car depends on your ability to have understood what you have made and to use it to its optimum strength. Of course there is always the option of buying your favorite classic model and driving it around but to build a replicar and then use what you have put together is a feeling only true enthusiasts can understand. These classic cars models sure make heads turn and they come with interesting stories too. Replicar enthusiasts and kit car builders are the ones who really know what driving is all about as they are both the creators and the users.
Another category is the sports car fan and drivers who have graduated to actual production of these cars. They will go on to build cars from scratch to resemble some of the most valuable and rare cars in the history of cars. These are called kit car owners who go the distance to make quality replicas of the original vehicle. Now the end product looks almost indistinguishable from the original. Take the famous Cobra - it has a lot of takers.
There is something to be said about getting the tool box out and building your own replicar. Some actually revel in the challenge that this hobby brings with it. You also get to create your dream car without spending a fortune on it. Replicars facilitate building your own car ground upwards using a kit body along with a common mainstream automotive base and other parts. In itself the world of replicars is a different world altogether which comprises builders and fans. They hold rallies and get togethers where there is a lot of interaction and a lot of ideas are exchanged and most tend to find parts that they need and another does not. Not only does this hobby encourage more socializing with like minded people it also brings with it a heady mix of people from different walks of life and one gets a chance to learn about different aspects of replicars and others’ experiences.
A personally-built car means you have a very clear idea of your car’s capability and limitations. So the success of your car depends on your ability to have understood what you have made and to use it to its optimum strength. Of course there is always the option of buying your favorite classic model and driving it around but to build a replicar and then use what you have put together is a feeling only true enthusiasts can understand. These classic cars models sure make heads turn and they come with interesting stories too. Replicar enthusiasts and kit car builders are the ones who really know what driving is all about as they are both the creators and the users.
Sunday, October 3, 2010
How To Buy A Motorcycle Helmet
A helmet is not an accessory, it a life saving gear. You must therefore spend considerable time in finding out how to buy a motorcycle helmet. Some of the points that you need to check are:
1. DOT Certification: The helmet that you buy must have a Department of Transportation certification. This is a guarantee that the helmet meets the basic safety requirements.
2. Retention: Do a roll off test before you buy a helmet. This test is simple. All that you need to do is to secure the straps, grab the rear lip of the helmet and try to roll it forward off your head. Don't stop if it hurts. A helmet should stay on your head at the moment of impact. If the helmet comes off, then don’t buy it. There is no point having a fractured head and an intact helmet lying a few feet away.
3. Fit: The fit decides the retention factor of a helmet. The fit should be snug and the helmet should stay stable. A full-face helmet should grip your cheeks and jaw as well as the top and sides of your head. When you move the helmet your skin must move as well.
4. Comfort: Comfort is a sum total of many things: the fit, the feel, the weight, the soundproofing. When trying on a helmet keep it on for at least 20 minutes. Then check to see what are the areas of discomfort.
5. Coverage: A full helmet is better than a half helmet and a full-face helmet (with a chin bar) gives more protection than an open-face style.
6. Face shield: If you are buying a helmet with a face shield go for Snell-certified helmets. The shield should be easy to operate and stay in position when raised. Also check for optical distortions. They can be dangerous.
7. Convenience features: Along with an extra shield and a quick-change face shield mechanism, a storage bag is a useful feature to look for. You can use it to carry helmets.
8. Comfort features: Vents, padded straps and, interchangeable padding shapes to fit your head shape are comfort features. But remember vents can cause wind noise and can also get damaged easily.
9. Appearance: Appearance is largely a personal choice. The only advantage that a florescent helmet has is that it will stand out more during the day.
10. Cost: Go for the helmet that meets all the criteria outlined above, even if it is cheaper than other helmets. Price is not always an absolute indicator of quality.
1. DOT Certification: The helmet that you buy must have a Department of Transportation certification. This is a guarantee that the helmet meets the basic safety requirements.
2. Retention: Do a roll off test before you buy a helmet. This test is simple. All that you need to do is to secure the straps, grab the rear lip of the helmet and try to roll it forward off your head. Don't stop if it hurts. A helmet should stay on your head at the moment of impact. If the helmet comes off, then don’t buy it. There is no point having a fractured head and an intact helmet lying a few feet away.
3. Fit: The fit decides the retention factor of a helmet. The fit should be snug and the helmet should stay stable. A full-face helmet should grip your cheeks and jaw as well as the top and sides of your head. When you move the helmet your skin must move as well.
4. Comfort: Comfort is a sum total of many things: the fit, the feel, the weight, the soundproofing. When trying on a helmet keep it on for at least 20 minutes. Then check to see what are the areas of discomfort.
5. Coverage: A full helmet is better than a half helmet and a full-face helmet (with a chin bar) gives more protection than an open-face style.
6. Face shield: If you are buying a helmet with a face shield go for Snell-certified helmets. The shield should be easy to operate and stay in position when raised. Also check for optical distortions. They can be dangerous.
7. Convenience features: Along with an extra shield and a quick-change face shield mechanism, a storage bag is a useful feature to look for. You can use it to carry helmets.
8. Comfort features: Vents, padded straps and, interchangeable padding shapes to fit your head shape are comfort features. But remember vents can cause wind noise and can also get damaged easily.
9. Appearance: Appearance is largely a personal choice. The only advantage that a florescent helmet has is that it will stand out more during the day.
10. Cost: Go for the helmet that meets all the criteria outlined above, even if it is cheaper than other helmets. Price is not always an absolute indicator of quality.
Saturday, October 2, 2010
How To Buy Motorcycle Boots
Motorcycle boots have the unenviable task of living up to multiple expectations.
They have to be comfortable for long rides and walks, yet sturdy enough to protect your feet in case of a fall. They should also provide superior traction without wearing out easily. What’s more they should be able to weather the elements, and look sleek and handsome. The question is: how should you buy motorcycle boots if you want them to perform so many functions?
Here are 11 points that you should keep in mind while searching for that perfect boot.
1. Slip-on boots are more likely to slip-off during a spill. So, avoid them. Go for boots with laces.
2. Many boots claim that they have sophisticated, waterproof breathable membranes. Many work well in moderate conditions but fail when truly challenged.
3. Boots that close at the top or along the entire length with large swatches of hook-and-loop fastener are ideal for small and large calves respectively. Uncovered zippers let in wind and water.
4. Boots must be flexible. Look for boots that have a flexible ankle panel. This is a great plus.
5. Sport boots are different from all-around touring or cruising boots. The uppers in a touring boot are usually at a right angle. In sports boots, the uppers cock forward to mimic the leg's angle while riding. Touring boots are easier to walk in.
6. Some ankle protection is essential. You should prefer those boots that offer reinforcements in the upper front of the ankle, in the form of plastic or soft cups or pads around the anklebones.
7. Reflective inserts set low on the back of the boot where your pants cannot cover them is a good idea. They can be noticed by the drivers behind you at night – thus avoiding accidents.
8. Booths that have a shifter pad are particularly useful. They save both your boot and your foot from undue stress.
9. The region where the uppers meet the sole should be welded or sewn. Welded soles cost less and add to water protection. Stitched uppers are easier to replace but are expensive.
10. A1.5 inches to 3.5 inches heel is ideal. Taller heels lock your feet into a single position and don’t allow instantaneous coverage of the brake.
11. Thick meaty tread patterns on oil-resistant rubber soles are a good choice. They provide good ground traction and control.
Tread carefully when it comes to choosing the right motorcycle boots. It can make all the difference between a comfortable ride and an uncomfortable one.
They have to be comfortable for long rides and walks, yet sturdy enough to protect your feet in case of a fall. They should also provide superior traction without wearing out easily. What’s more they should be able to weather the elements, and look sleek and handsome. The question is: how should you buy motorcycle boots if you want them to perform so many functions?
Here are 11 points that you should keep in mind while searching for that perfect boot.
1. Slip-on boots are more likely to slip-off during a spill. So, avoid them. Go for boots with laces.
2. Many boots claim that they have sophisticated, waterproof breathable membranes. Many work well in moderate conditions but fail when truly challenged.
3. Boots that close at the top or along the entire length with large swatches of hook-and-loop fastener are ideal for small and large calves respectively. Uncovered zippers let in wind and water.
4. Boots must be flexible. Look for boots that have a flexible ankle panel. This is a great plus.
5. Sport boots are different from all-around touring or cruising boots. The uppers in a touring boot are usually at a right angle. In sports boots, the uppers cock forward to mimic the leg's angle while riding. Touring boots are easier to walk in.
6. Some ankle protection is essential. You should prefer those boots that offer reinforcements in the upper front of the ankle, in the form of plastic or soft cups or pads around the anklebones.
7. Reflective inserts set low on the back of the boot where your pants cannot cover them is a good idea. They can be noticed by the drivers behind you at night – thus avoiding accidents.
8. Booths that have a shifter pad are particularly useful. They save both your boot and your foot from undue stress.
9. The region where the uppers meet the sole should be welded or sewn. Welded soles cost less and add to water protection. Stitched uppers are easier to replace but are expensive.
10. A1.5 inches to 3.5 inches heel is ideal. Taller heels lock your feet into a single position and don’t allow instantaneous coverage of the brake.
11. Thick meaty tread patterns on oil-resistant rubber soles are a good choice. They provide good ground traction and control.
Tread carefully when it comes to choosing the right motorcycle boots. It can make all the difference between a comfortable ride and an uncomfortable one.
Friday, October 1, 2010
How To Buy Winter Motorcycle Gloves
If you’ve been out riding on the streets on a cold winter night, you will know why no rider should venture out without gloves. They protect your fingers, which can otherwise grow numb making it very difficult for you to control the bike. However, it is important that you should know how to buy winter motorcycle gloves. Otherwise, you may end up getting the wrong pair of gloves.
Here are seven points that you must keep in mind while buying a pair of gloves:
1. The gloves should have a long and wide hook-and-loop closure lock. This will not only lock out the chill but also keep the glove on in case you skid. You will thus avoid scratched knuckles or bruised palms that you so often see in the case of careless riders.
2. Circulation deteriorates when the body is cold, so it's important that your glove fits properly and doesn't hamper the blood flow. Streamlined gloves made from high-tech material are a good option. If a glove feels tight, it is best to move to the next size.
3. You can opt for a variety of gloves instead of a single one. This way you can have gloves of different thickness that offer varying degrees of comfort and warmth, and can be used under different weather conditions.
4. Insulation is a very important part of the glove. Look for a high-efficiency lining made of material like 3M Thinsulate. It should line the inside completely. A thinner insulation in the palm area is good because it gives you better grip on the controls.
5. Good gloves have pre-curved fingers to give better flexibility and comfort. While trying a pair curl your fingers tightly and see if you feel comfortable or if the fabric bunches up. Try to grip and throttle with the gloves on to see how it would actually feel.
6. Now, a look at the fabric. The ideal winter glove should be made of a tightly woven synthetic fabric like Cordura. Compared to leather, nylon is lighter, more flexible and has a superior lever feel.
7. Finally, remember that the body prioritises the vital organs over the extremities when it comes to heating. If you keep your vital organs warm by wearing an electric vest then the body will distribute blood to your hands and feet as well instead of keeping it in circulation in the torso region only.
Here are seven points that you must keep in mind while buying a pair of gloves:
1. The gloves should have a long and wide hook-and-loop closure lock. This will not only lock out the chill but also keep the glove on in case you skid. You will thus avoid scratched knuckles or bruised palms that you so often see in the case of careless riders.
2. Circulation deteriorates when the body is cold, so it's important that your glove fits properly and doesn't hamper the blood flow. Streamlined gloves made from high-tech material are a good option. If a glove feels tight, it is best to move to the next size.
3. You can opt for a variety of gloves instead of a single one. This way you can have gloves of different thickness that offer varying degrees of comfort and warmth, and can be used under different weather conditions.
4. Insulation is a very important part of the glove. Look for a high-efficiency lining made of material like 3M Thinsulate. It should line the inside completely. A thinner insulation in the palm area is good because it gives you better grip on the controls.
5. Good gloves have pre-curved fingers to give better flexibility and comfort. While trying a pair curl your fingers tightly and see if you feel comfortable or if the fabric bunches up. Try to grip and throttle with the gloves on to see how it would actually feel.
6. Now, a look at the fabric. The ideal winter glove should be made of a tightly woven synthetic fabric like Cordura. Compared to leather, nylon is lighter, more flexible and has a superior lever feel.
7. Finally, remember that the body prioritises the vital organs over the extremities when it comes to heating. If you keep your vital organs warm by wearing an electric vest then the body will distribute blood to your hands and feet as well instead of keeping it in circulation in the torso region only.
How To Calculate Your Lease Payment
Understanding how to calculate your monthly lease payment makes it easier for you to make an informed decision. Yet, most of us shy away from the “complicated” math on our lease contract, leaving it up to the dealer to do the payment formula.
Actually, it’s not that difficult! Once you understand all the figures involved in calculating your monthly payments, everything else falls into place. These key figures are:
MSRP (short for Manufacturer’s Suggested Retail Price): This is the list price of the vehicle or the window sticker price. Money Factor: This determines the interest rate on your lease. Insist on your dealer to disclose this rate before entering into a lease. Lease Term: The number of months the dealer rents the vehicle. Residual Value: The value of the vehicle at the end of the lease. Again, you can get this figure from the dealer.
Now, let us calculate a sample lease payment based on a vehicle with an MSRP (sticker price) value of $25,000 and a money factor of 0.0034 (this is usually quoted as 3.4%). The scheduled-lease is over 3 years and the estimated residual percentage is 55%.
The first step is to calculate the residual value of the car. You multiply the MSRP by the residual percentage:
$20,000 X .55 = $11,000.
The car will be worth $13,750 at the end of the lease, so you'll be using:
$20,000 – $11,000 = $9,000
This amount of $9,000 will be used over a 36 month lease period giving us a monthly payment of:
$9,000 / 36 = $250.
This is the first part of the monthly payment, called the monthly depreciation charge. The second part of the monthly payment, called the money factor payment, factors the interest charge. It is calculated by adding the MSRP figure to the residual value and multiplying this by the money factor:
($20,000 + $11,000) * 0.0034 = $105.4
Finally, we get the approximate monthly payment by adding the two figures together:
$250 + $105.4 = $355.4
To recapitulate, the sample formula looks like this:
1- Monthly Depreciation Charge:
MSRP X Depreciation Percentage = Residual Value MSRP – Residual Value = Depreciation over lease term Depreciation over lease term / lease term (number of months in the lease) = monthly depreciation charge
2- Monthly factor money charge
(MSRP + Residual value) X Money factor = money factor payment
3- Sample Monthly Payment:
depreciation charge + money factor payment = monthly payment
Keep in mind that this is a simplified calculation that does not take into account taxes, fees, rebates or any other incentives. The calculation gives you a ballpark figure or a rough idea of what your lease payments for the vehicle in question should be.
Actually, it’s not that difficult! Once you understand all the figures involved in calculating your monthly payments, everything else falls into place. These key figures are:
MSRP (short for Manufacturer’s Suggested Retail Price): This is the list price of the vehicle or the window sticker price. Money Factor: This determines the interest rate on your lease. Insist on your dealer to disclose this rate before entering into a lease. Lease Term: The number of months the dealer rents the vehicle. Residual Value: The value of the vehicle at the end of the lease. Again, you can get this figure from the dealer.
Now, let us calculate a sample lease payment based on a vehicle with an MSRP (sticker price) value of $25,000 and a money factor of 0.0034 (this is usually quoted as 3.4%). The scheduled-lease is over 3 years and the estimated residual percentage is 55%.
The first step is to calculate the residual value of the car. You multiply the MSRP by the residual percentage:
$20,000 X .55 = $11,000.
The car will be worth $13,750 at the end of the lease, so you'll be using:
$20,000 – $11,000 = $9,000
This amount of $9,000 will be used over a 36 month lease period giving us a monthly payment of:
$9,000 / 36 = $250.
This is the first part of the monthly payment, called the monthly depreciation charge. The second part of the monthly payment, called the money factor payment, factors the interest charge. It is calculated by adding the MSRP figure to the residual value and multiplying this by the money factor:
($20,000 + $11,000) * 0.0034 = $105.4
Finally, we get the approximate monthly payment by adding the two figures together:
$250 + $105.4 = $355.4
To recapitulate, the sample formula looks like this:
1- Monthly Depreciation Charge:
MSRP X Depreciation Percentage = Residual Value MSRP – Residual Value = Depreciation over lease term Depreciation over lease term / lease term (number of months in the lease) = monthly depreciation charge
2- Monthly factor money charge
(MSRP + Residual value) X Money factor = money factor payment
3- Sample Monthly Payment:
depreciation charge + money factor payment = monthly payment
Keep in mind that this is a simplified calculation that does not take into account taxes, fees, rebates or any other incentives. The calculation gives you a ballpark figure or a rough idea of what your lease payments for the vehicle in question should be.
How To Change Your Car's Motor Oil In 3 Easy Steps
Ideally, you should change your motor oil every three months or after every 3,000 miles. If you often drive around in hot or dusty conditions, you might even want to change oil more often than that.
The process is pretty simple, and as easy as one-two-three. Step one is getting ready, step two is draining the oil and changing the oil filter while step three is installing the new oil.
(1) Getting Ready
When getting ready, it is important to have the right tools and materials on hand, such as jack stands, a socket set and an oil drain pan. Let your car engine run for 10 minutes before you drain the oil since warm oil is easier to drain than cold. Make sure you park on a level surface or, if your car has a low clearance, jack it up or drive it onto a ramp. If youre jacking up the car, use two jack stands instead of one. (An additional jack costs about $20 and that is a small price to pay to spare your face from being squished by a badly balanced car.) You might want to check your cars manual about the weight of oil and type of oil filter you need to use.
(2) Draining the Oil and Changing the Oil Filter
To drain the oil, crawl under the car and look for the oil drain plug under the engine near the front of the car. Position your pan beneath the plug then use a socket wrench to loosen the plug, turning counterclockwise. Once loosened, you can use your hand to remove the plug and the hot oil starts pouring out. Make sure all the old oil is drained into the pan. Once its completely drained, wipe the drain plug and the plug opening. Now replace the drain plug gasket and use a wrench to reinstall the plug but dont make it too tight.
Next, look for the oil filter. They are usually at the side of the engine. Place the oil pan beneath the filter in case any oil remains. Unscrew the oil filter (use gloves if it is too hot) and wipe the filter area clean, especially where it mounts to the engine. Dab a bit of your new oil on the rubber seal of the new filter and then screw it in by hand. You dont have to use a wrench to tighten the oil filter.
(3) Installing New Oil
Remove the oil filler cap thats located at the top of the engine. Position the funnel at the opening and slowly start pouring in the new oil You might want to check your manual for the proper oil capacity but, typically, you will need four or five quarts of oil. Once youre done, put back the oil filler cap. Start the engine, let it run for a minute and then check the dipstick. If you need to, add more oil. Now check for any leaks near the oil drain plug and the filter. If you do find leaks, simply tighten the plug or oil filter.
Youre done. But dont forget to clean up. Carefully wipe away any excess oil and put the old oil into a plastic container then dispose of it. Dont just pour it anywhere, though. Better to take it to the recycle center or other authorized locations.
The process is pretty simple, and as easy as one-two-three. Step one is getting ready, step two is draining the oil and changing the oil filter while step three is installing the new oil.
(1) Getting Ready
When getting ready, it is important to have the right tools and materials on hand, such as jack stands, a socket set and an oil drain pan. Let your car engine run for 10 minutes before you drain the oil since warm oil is easier to drain than cold. Make sure you park on a level surface or, if your car has a low clearance, jack it up or drive it onto a ramp. If youre jacking up the car, use two jack stands instead of one. (An additional jack costs about $20 and that is a small price to pay to spare your face from being squished by a badly balanced car.) You might want to check your cars manual about the weight of oil and type of oil filter you need to use.
(2) Draining the Oil and Changing the Oil Filter
To drain the oil, crawl under the car and look for the oil drain plug under the engine near the front of the car. Position your pan beneath the plug then use a socket wrench to loosen the plug, turning counterclockwise. Once loosened, you can use your hand to remove the plug and the hot oil starts pouring out. Make sure all the old oil is drained into the pan. Once its completely drained, wipe the drain plug and the plug opening. Now replace the drain plug gasket and use a wrench to reinstall the plug but dont make it too tight.
Next, look for the oil filter. They are usually at the side of the engine. Place the oil pan beneath the filter in case any oil remains. Unscrew the oil filter (use gloves if it is too hot) and wipe the filter area clean, especially where it mounts to the engine. Dab a bit of your new oil on the rubber seal of the new filter and then screw it in by hand. You dont have to use a wrench to tighten the oil filter.
(3) Installing New Oil
Remove the oil filler cap thats located at the top of the engine. Position the funnel at the opening and slowly start pouring in the new oil You might want to check your manual for the proper oil capacity but, typically, you will need four or five quarts of oil. Once youre done, put back the oil filler cap. Start the engine, let it run for a minute and then check the dipstick. If you need to, add more oil. Now check for any leaks near the oil drain plug and the filter. If you do find leaks, simply tighten the plug or oil filter.
Youre done. But dont forget to clean up. Carefully wipe away any excess oil and put the old oil into a plastic container then dispose of it. Dont just pour it anywhere, though. Better to take it to the recycle center or other authorized locations.
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